How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: SE)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2014-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: SE)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment advice for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Escape - Front Strut Replacement
This repair covers replacing the front strut assemblies on your Escape. A strut is the main front suspension shock-and-spring unit; it supports the vehicle, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tires planted.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never work under your Escape supported by a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands before removing any wheel. Jack stands are fixed supports that hold the vehicle safely after lifting.
- ⚠️ If using complete loaded strut assemblies, do not disassemble the spring. The coil spring is under very high tension.
- ⚠️ If reusing the spring, a wall-mounted spring compressor is strongly recommended. A spring compressor is a tool that squeezes the coil spring safely so the strut can be separated.
- ⚠️ Do not allow the steering knuckle to hang by the brake hose or ABS wheel speed sensor wire.
- ⚠️ After strut replacement, a professional wheel alignment is required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 21mm wrench
- 6mm hex key socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Bungee cord
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assemblies - Left and right, replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front stabilizer bar links - Recommended if rusted or loose, replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended replacement - Qty: 4 bolts, 4 nuts
- Upper strut mount nuts - Recommended replacement - Qty: 6
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔍 Compare the new loaded strut assemblies to the old ones before installation. Left and right sides are different.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut bolts before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.
- 💡 Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and stabilizer link nuts before starting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Break them loose on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
- Place jack stands under the proper front pinch weld or reinforced support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Keep the floor jack lightly supporting the lower control arm area while you work.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Use a bungee cord to support the steering knuckle from the coil spring area or body structure.
- The steering knuckle is the metal hub carrier that the wheel bearing and brake assembly attach to.
- Do not stretch the brake hose or ABS wire.
Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket, depending on bracket fastener, to remove the brake hose bracket from the strut.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to release the ABS wire clip from the strut bracket.
- Move the hose and wire aside gently.
Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut
- Use an 18mm socket on the stabilizer bar link nut.
- If the link stud spins, hold the center of the stud with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with an 18mm wrench.
- Move the link away from the strut bracket.
- The stabilizer bar link connects the strut to the sway bar and helps reduce body roll.
Step 7: Mark the Lower Strut Position
- Use a paint marker to outline where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
- Mark the position of both lower strut bolts.
- This does not replace an alignment, but it helps keep the steering close enough for a short drive.
Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
- If the bolts are tight, use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and apply penetrating oil.
- Use a hammer to tap the bolts out if needed.
- Keep one hand on the strut so it does not shift suddenly.
Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Open the hood.
- Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper nuts.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the strut assembly.
- Support the strut with one hand while removing the last nut.
Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly
- Carefully lower the old strut assembly out through the wheel well.
- Use a pry bar only if needed to gently separate the strut from the steering knuckle.
- Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.
Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly
- Guide the new loaded strut assembly up into the strut tower.
- Install the three new upper strut mount nuts by hand first.
- Use a 13mm socket to snug the nuts evenly.
- Do not fully tighten them until the lower bolts are started.
Step 12: Reconnect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle using your paint marks as a guide.
- Use a pry bar only for small alignment adjustments.
- Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lower fasteners to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Tighten the Upper Strut Mount Nuts
- Use a 13mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the three upper mount nuts.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
- Tighten them evenly in a triangle pattern.
Step 14: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link
- Install the stabilizer bar link into the strut bracket.
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the link nut.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key socket.
- Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire
- Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
- Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
- Use your hands and a trim clip removal tool if needed to snap the ABS wire clip back into the strut bracket.
- Make sure the hose and wire are not twisted or stretched.
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite front strut.
- Always replace front struts in pairs so your Escape handles evenly.
Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Do not fully torque the lug nuts while the vehicle is still raised.
Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower your Escape to the ground.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each front corner by hand. The vehicle should settle quickly without clunking.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check that the brake hoses and ABS wires do not pull tight.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks, rattles, or pulling.
- ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible after the repair.
- ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Suspension Strut Assembly replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |
| 2019 Ford Escape | SEL | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |
| 2018 Ford Escape | SEL | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2017 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2016 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2015 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | S | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | SE | - | - |
| 2014 Ford Escape | Titanium | - | - |


















