🔧 Escape - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front suspension strut assemblies on your Escape. The struts support the vehicle, control bouncing, and help keep the tires planted on the road.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Struts are part of the suspension, so the vehicle must be safely supported with jack stands before any wheel or suspension work.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs. Installing only one new strut can cause uneven handling and braking.
• ⚠️ Use complete loaded strut assemblies if you are a beginner. A loaded strut includes the spring already installed, avoiding dangerous spring compression work.
• ⚠️ If using bare struts, the coil spring must be compressed with a proper spring compressor. This is dangerous if done incorrectly and is not recommended for a first-time DIYer.
• ⚠️ Your Escape has ABS/wheel speed wiring near the strut. Do not stretch, pinch, or twist this wiring.
• ⚠️ An alignment is required after strut replacement to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar
• Ball peen hammer
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolt and nut kit - Qty: 2 sets
• Front stabilizer bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Escape on a flat, solid surface.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔒 Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the vehicle. Do not remove them yet.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position before disassembly. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• 💡 Plan to have a professional wheel alignment performed immediately after this repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Tip: Break them loose, do not remove.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
• Place jack stands under the proper front support points on both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently push the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the suspension.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground away from the work area.

Step 4: Mark the Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to mark where the strut bolts to the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that the wheel hub and brake assembly attach to.
• This mark helps you install the new strut close to the old position until the alignment is done.

Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket or flat blade screwdriver as needed to remove the brake hose bracket from the strut.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to carefully release the ABS wheel speed sensor wire clip from the strut.
• Move the hose and wire aside gently. Do not pull hard on either one.

Step 6: Disconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link from the Strut

• The stabilizer bar link is a small rod that connects the sway bar to the strut to reduce body roll.
• Spray the link nut with penetrating oil.
• Use an 18mm wrench and the correct holding method on the link stud if it spins.
• Remove the nut using an 18mm wrench or socket if access allows.
• Move the stabilizer link away from the strut.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or knuckle area.
• Raise it just enough to support the weight of the suspension.
• This prevents the brake hose or axle from being pulled when the strut bolts are removed.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Spray the lower strut bolts and nuts with penetrating oil.
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to loosen the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
• Use a 24mm socket if your replacement hardware or installed fasteners use the larger Ford service nut size.
• Remove the lower bolts while keeping the knuckle supported with the floor jack.
• If a bolt is stuck, tap it carefully with a ball peen hammer.
• Tip: Do not hit brake parts.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Support the strut assembly with one hand from the wheel well.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mount nuts.
• Do not remove the large center nut on the strut assembly. That nut holds spring tension on non-loaded struts.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Carefully lower the strut out through the wheel well.
• Use a pry bar gently if the strut is stuck to the steering knuckle.
• Watch the brake hose, ABS wire, and axle boot while removing it.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Guide the new loaded strut assembly up into the strut tower.
• Install the new upper strut mount nuts by hand first.
• Use a 13mm socket to snug the upper nuts, but do not fully torque them yet.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle.

Step 12: Install the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle until the bolt holes line up.
• Install the new strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to tighten the lower fasteners.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Torque the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the upper strut mount nuts evenly.
• Tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Do not torque or remove the center shaft nut.

Step 14: Reconnect the Stabilizer Bar Link

• Insert the stabilizer bar link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install a new stabilizer link nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the nut.
• Torque the stabilizer bar link nut to Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket to the strut if equipped with a bolt.
• Use your hand and a trim clip removal tool if needed to seat the ABS wire clip back into the strut bracket.
• Make sure the brake hose and wire are not twisted or rubbing the tire.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and safety steps.
• Replacing both sides keeps the handling balanced.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each front wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Escape fully to the ground.
• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for rubbing, clunking, or binding.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for loose hardware noises over small bumps.
• ✅ Recheck that the ABS wire and brake hose are clipped securely and not stretched.
• ✅ Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible. This is required after front strut replacement.
• ✅ After 25-50 miles, recheck the front lug nut torque to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $350-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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