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2013 Toyota Camry
2013 Toyota Camry
SE - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Front Struts 2012-17 Toyota Camry

How to Replace Front Struts 2012-17 Toyota Camry

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for quick-struts or spring transfer + alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2013 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for quick-struts or spring transfer + alignment notes

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Camry - Front Strut Replacement

On your Camry, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (spring + shock together). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear control—an alignment is required afterward.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Two quick questions (so I can tailor this perfectly): Are you replacing front struts only or front + rear? And are you installing complete “quick-strut” assemblies or reusing your springs?


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never loosen the center nut on the strut mount unless the spring is safely compressed.
  • ⚠️ A compressed coil spring stores huge energy—use a quality coil spring compressor (specialty) correctly, or use complete assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
  • ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the axle/CV joint isn’t over-stretched when the strut is removed.
  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm
  • Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Allen key 6mm
  • Pry bar (24")
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Bungee cord
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • OR front struts (bare) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mounts/bearings - If reusing springs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included - Qty: 2
  • Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🔩 Break loose the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket).
  • đź§´ Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nut (give it 10 minutes).
  • đź§­ Plan on a professional alignment after both front struts are replaced.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front, then place jack stands under the proper lift points.
  • Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets from the strut

  • Remove the brake hose/line bracket from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Remove the ABS wire bracket/clip(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Keep wires relaxed; don’t pull them tight.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if needed for clearance)

  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with an Allen key 6mm while loosening the nut with the 17mm wrench.

Step 4: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions (helps keep alignment close).
  • Support the steering knuckle with a bungee cord so the axle doesn’t droop.
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (use a 19mm wrench on the opposite side if needed).
  • Tap the bolts out using a hammer if they’re stuck (don’t mushroom the threads).

Step 5: Remove the strut top nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Locate the strut mount at the top of the strut tower.
  • Remove the three strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Do not remove the center nut on the mount unless the spring is compressed.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly

  • Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.
  • If it’s tight, use a pry bar gently at the knuckle area while guiding the strut out.

Step 7A: If installing complete quick-strut assemblies (recommended)

  • Place the new assembly into the strut tower and start the three top nuts by hand.
  • Align the lower strut bracket with the knuckle and slide the bolts in.
  • Install the lower nuts and snug everything with a ratchet and 19mm socket.

Step 7B: If reusing your spring (requires spring compressor)

  • Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly, side-to-side, until the spring is loose on the mount.
  • Remove the center nut using a 17mm socket while holding the strut shaft with an Allen key 6mm (as applicable).
  • Transfer the spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same orientation.
  • Tighten the center nut with a torque wrench to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
  • Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring seats correctly in the upper and lower perches.
  • Stop if anything shifts or binds.

Step 8: Torque the strut fasteners (critical)

  • Tighten the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench and 14mm socket: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench and 19mm socket: Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link and tighten using a torque wrench and 17mm wrench: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • đź§Ş Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • đź§­ Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front camber/toe will shift).
  • 🔍 Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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