🔧 Altima - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front suspension strut assemblies on your Altima. The strut supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bounce, and helps keep the tires planted during braking and cornering.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Replace struts in pairs on the same axle to keep handling and braking balanced.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid ground. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ A coil spring is under heavy tension. For a beginner, use complete loaded strut assemblies to avoid compressing the spring.
• ⚠️ If reusing the spring, a spring compressor is required. A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so the strut can be disassembled safely.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the center strut shaft nut unless the spring is safely compressed.
• ⚠️ Your Altima has front wheel speed sensor wiring near the strut. Do not stretch, twist, or pull on the wire.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar (18-inch)
• Ball-peen hammer
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil spray
• Spring compressor set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front loaded strut assembly, left - Qty: 1
• Front loaded strut assembly, right - Qty: 1
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Open the hood before lifting the vehicle so you can reach the upper strut mounting nuts.
• 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly while the tires are still on the ground.
• 📏 Plan for a wheel alignment after replacing the struts. Strut removal can change camber and toe angles.
• 🔩 Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, sway bar link nut, and brake hose bracket bolt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting for safety.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack under the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Altima.
• Place jack stands under the front pinch weld jack points on both sides.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a light shake to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Strut-to-Knuckle Position

• Use a paint marker to draw alignment marks where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
• This helps you install the new strut close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Hose and Sensor Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut body.
• Use a flat-head screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to release the wheel speed sensor wire clip from the strut.
• Move the hose and wire aside gently.
• Do not let the brake hose hang by tension.

Step 6: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Strut

• Use an 18mm socket or 19mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut bracket.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with a 17mm wrench or the correct internal holding point, then remove the nut with the socket.
• The sway bar link connects the strut to the stabilizer bar to reduce body roll in turns.
• Move the sway bar link out of the strut bracket.

Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or steering knuckle area.
• Raise it just enough to support the suspension, not to lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
• This prevents the axle and brake hose from dropping too far when the strut bolts are removed.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Bolts

• Use a 22mm socket and 22mm wrench to loosen the two large lower strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts.
• If your hardware uses a different head size, use the matching 19mm socket or 21mm socket.
• Use a ball-peen hammer to gently tap the bolts out if they are stuck.
• Use a pry bar only as needed to separate the strut from the knuckle.
• Keep the knuckle supported so it does not pull on the axle or brake hose.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mounting Nuts

• From under the hood, locate the three upper strut mounting nuts on the strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut.
• Do not remove or loosen the large center shaft nut.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Lower the old strut assembly out through the wheel well by hand.
• Use the pry bar gently if the lower mount is stuck to the knuckle.
• Compare the old strut to the new loaded strut assembly before installation.
• Make sure the left and right struts are installed on the correct sides.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Guide the new strut up into the strut tower by hand.
• Start the three upper mounting nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the nuts lightly, but do not fully torque them yet.
• Hand-start nuts to protect threads.

Step 12: Attach the Strut to the Steering Knuckle

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle until the bolt holes line up.
• Slide the lower strut bolts through the strut and knuckle by hand.
• Install the nuts by hand.
• Use the paint marker marks as a rough guide for positioning.
• Use a 22mm socket, 22mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower strut bolts to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Torque the Upper Strut Mounting Nuts

• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut mounting nuts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Do not torque the large center shaft nut unless the strut manufacturer specifically requires it.

Step 14: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

• Insert the sway bar link stud into the strut bracket.
• Install the new sway bar link nut by hand.
• Use an 18mm socket or 19mm socket with a torque wrench to tighten the nut.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reinstall the Brake Hose and Sensor Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt on the strut.
• Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Use a flat-head screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to seat the wheel speed sensor wire clip fully.
• Make sure the brake hose is not twisted and the sensor wire is not stretched.

Step 16: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specifications.
• Keep left-side and right-side parts separated until installed.

Step 17: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install the wheels by hand and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each front corner gently. The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and listen for clunks or binding.
• ✅ Drive slowly at first and listen for loose hardware noises.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.
• ✅ Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. This protects tires and restores proper steering feel.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, avoid highway driving until the alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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