🔧 Camry - Front Strut Replacement

On your Camry, the “struts” are the front shock/spring units. Replacing worn struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps protect tires from uneven wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If you’re reusing the coil springs, a spring compressor is required—stored spring force can cause severe injury.
• ⚠️ Keep clear of any orange high-voltage cables (hybrid system). This job is away from HV components, but don’t tug or pry near them.
• ⚠️ After strut work, you must get a 4-wheel alignment soon (steering knuckle position changes).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lb range)
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Socket set 3/8-inch drive (10mm-19mm)
• Socket set 1/2-inch drive (14mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• Allen key set (5mm-8mm)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Hammer 24 oz
• Punch 8mm
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Left: 1, Right: 1 - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting the car.
• Open the hood and locate the strut tower area (top of the strut). Do not remove the large center nut yet.
• If you’re not using complete strut assemblies: a spring compressor is a tool that clamps the coil spring so you can safely remove the top nut.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the car on jack stands.
• Remove both front wheels using a 21mm socket.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

Step 2: Unbolt brackets and the sway bar end link from the strut

• Spray fasteners with penetrating oil.
• Remove the brake hose/line bracket(s) from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the ABS wire bracket from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm socket and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
• Reinstall torque: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the end link nut.

Step 3: Mark the knuckle/strut position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• Helps keep alignment closer until your shop visit.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a breaker bar with 19mm-22mm sockets and a wrench as needed.
• If a bolt is stuck, use a hammer and 8mm punch to drive it out carefully.
• Reinstall torque: Torque to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.

Step 5: Remove the strut from the body

• From the engine bay, remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut with your other hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Reinstall torque: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the strut mount nuts.

Step 6: If reusing springs, transfer parts to the new strut

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose from the top mount.
• Remove the top center nut using a socket while holding the strut rod with an Allen key if required.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats correctly.
• If unsure, buy complete quick-strut assemblies.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a 14mm socket (do not fully tighten yet).
• Align the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the two lower bolts using a pry bar as needed to line up holes.
• Tighten the lower bolts/nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs).
• Torque the top mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reattach the end link and brackets

• Install the sway bar end link to the strut using a 17mm socket and hold with an Allen key if it spins.
• Torque the end link nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using a 10mm socket.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks, and confirm the steering wheel returns to center.
• Recheck that brake hoses and ABS wires are clipped and not stretched or rubbing.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (ideally the same day).
• After 50-100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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