🔧 Altima - Front Strut Replacement

On your Altima, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (a shock + spring unit). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Quick questions (so I guide you correctly): Are you replacing front struts only, or all four corners? And are you installing a complete “quick-strut” assembly (pre-built) or reusing your spring with a spring compressor?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (front pair)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If you are not using a complete quick-strut: a coil spring stores dangerous energy. Only use a quality spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring safely).
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s “line of fire” while compressing.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling/stretching the ABS wheel speed sensor wire and brake hose while the strut is loose.
• ⚠️ Hybrid note: this job does not require HV battery service, but do not disturb orange HV cables.
• ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–22mm, 3/8" & 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Allen key set (metric)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external type) (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (quick-strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR Front struts (cartridges) / bare struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops & dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Optional but recommended if worn - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Optional if hardware is rusted - Qty: 2 sets

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the car OFF, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket before lifting.
• Open the hood and locate the 3 strut mount nuts at the top of each strut tower.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut using penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship to help keep alignment close. Alignment is still required.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points and lower onto them.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets/wiring from the strut

• Unclip/remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut body using a 10mm socket and flat trim tool.
• Make sure the hose and wire have slack and won’t be pulled when the knuckle drops.

Step 3: Remove the sway bar end link from the strut (if attached)

• Remove the end link nut using a 17mm wrench or 17mm socket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with a metric Allen key while turning the nut with a wrench.

Step 4: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") with 21mm socket and a matching wrench on the other side.
• Tap bolts out as needed using a pry bar for positioning (do not hit threads directly).

Step 5: Remove the strut from the car

• From the engine bay, remove the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut so it doesn’t fall, then pull the full strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 6A: If installing a complete quick-strut assembly

• Compare old vs new strut orientation (spring end, mount direction) before installing.
• Place the new quick-strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.

Step 6B: If reusing your coil spring (spring compressor required)

• Install the spring compressor (external type) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
• Tighten evenly using a ratchet until the spring is loose in the upper seat. Compress only as much as needed.
• Remove the center strut shaft nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with a metric Allen key.
• Transfer/replace the mount, bearing, boot, and bump stop onto the new strut, matching orientation.
• Reinstall the center shaft nut using the pass-through socket and torque wrench: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the compressor evenly, then remove it.

Step 7: Reattach the strut to the steering knuckle

• Align the knuckle to the strut and insert the two bolts using a pry bar as needed for alignment.
• Install nuts and tighten using a torque wrench (1/2") with 21mm socket: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reattach sway bar end link and brackets

• Install the end link nut using a 17mm socket and hold the stud with a metric Allen key if needed: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 9: Tighten the upper mount nuts

• Under the hood, torque the three upper mount nuts using a torque wrench (3/8") with 14mm socket: Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final-tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench (1/2") with 19mm socket: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks; recheck that all brackets are secured.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. New struts change toe/camber.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• If you replaced only one side, expect pulling/uneven ride—replace struts in pairs.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor, front pair)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only, front pair)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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