🔧 Equinox - Strut Replacement

Your Equinox uses front MacPherson struts (a strut is the shock + spring assembly that also helps locate the wheel). The rear typically uses separate shocks and coil springs, not a “strut” assembly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours (both fronts)

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❓ Quick Questions (so I give the exact steps)

• 🔎 Are you replacing the front struts, or did you mean the rear shocks?
• 🔎 Are you installing complete “quick-strut” assemblies (pre-assembled with spring/top mount), or reusing your springs with a coil spring compressor?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never loosen the top center nut on a strut unless the spring is safely compressed. The spring stores a lot of force.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire from being stretched or twisted while the strut is out.
• ⚠️ If you’re reusing springs, use a coil spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring shorter so it can be removed safely).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8"
• Socket set 8mm-24mm
• Wrench set 8mm-24mm
• Torx bit set
• Allen key set
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop and dust boot kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional (recommended if heavily rusted) - Qty: 2-4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a 19mm socket (about 1/2 turn) before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nut.
• If you’re using quick-struts, you will not need the coil spring compressor.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and lines from the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the appropriate socket set (commonly 10mm) and a trim clip tool if clips are present.
• Do not open any brake hydraulic lines.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the end link nut with the correct socket/wrench.
• If the stud spins, hold it with an Allen key or Torx bit while turning the nut.
• Tip: Clean threads before loosening.

Step 4: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position for reference.
• Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack under the control arm to prevent sudden movement.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar 1/2" and the correct socket/wrench set.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
• Leave the center strut rod nut alone unless the spring is compressed.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly

• Lower the knuckle slightly (supported) and guide the strut out.
• Use a pry bar carefully if needed to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Keep the knuckle from pulling on the axle, brake hose, or ABS wire.

Step 7A: If installing quick-strut assemblies

• Place the new quick-strut into the tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
• Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the strut-to-knuckle bolts using the correct socket/wrench set.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench to manufacturer specification.

Step 7B: If reusing your springs (not recommended for first-timers)

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on the spring and compress evenly, alternating sides.
• Remove the center strut rod nut using the correct socket while holding the rod with an Allen key or Torx bit (as applicable).
• Transfer spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut.
• Slowly release the spring compressor after the top mount is seated correctly.

Step 8: Reconnect sway bar link and brackets

• Reconnect the sway bar end link using the correct socket/wrench.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket set.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Final torque check (important)

• With the vehicle on the ground, use a torque wrench to final-torque the upper mount nuts and strut-to-knuckle bolts to manufacturer specification.
• Tip: Don’t fully torque bushings at full droop.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench after 50-100 miles.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (strut removal can change alignment).
• If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, do not delay the alignment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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