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2016 Nissan Juke
2011 - 2017 Nissan Juke
S
Compatible with more variants.
2011 - 2017 Nissan Juke
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2011 - 2017 Nissan Juke
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  • Guides
  • /
  • Nissan Juke
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Front Struts on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (MacPherson Strut Guide) (Trim: Nismo RS)
How To Replace Nissan Juke Front Struts (An Overview)

How To Replace Nissan Juke Front Struts (An Overview)

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (MacPherson Strut Guide) (Trim: Nismo RS)

Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (MacPherson Strut Guide) (Trim: Nismo RS)

Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Juke - Strut Replacement

On your Juke, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (the strut is the shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn/leaking struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact. Plan on getting an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front struts)

Assumption: Torque values below match typical 2016 Juke specs; verify if anything differs.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Coil springs store a lot of energy—use a spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) or buy complete pre-assembled struts to avoid compressing springs.
  • Always support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • Keep the steering knuckle supported so the axle/inner CV joint isn’t over-stretched when the strut is out.
  • If you remove any ABS/brake line clips, re-secure them exactly to prevent rubbing and brake line damage.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set 3/8" & 1/2" drive (10mm–22mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Extensions (3" and 6")
  • Allen key set (5mm–8mm)
  • Trim clip tool
  • Pry bar (18" minimum)
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Punch set
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if worn) - Qty: 2

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Crack the front wheel lug nuts loose using a breaker bar and correct-size socket before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nuts and let it soak while you set up.
  • If you’re not using complete pre-assembled struts, set your spring compressor and pass-through strut nut sockets nearby.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front end

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Juke at the proper front jack point.
  • Set it down securely on jack stands.
  • Remove both front wheels using a socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Unclip brake hose and ABS wire from the strut

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt(s) from the strut.
  • Use a trim clip tool to release ABS wire clips from the strut body.
  • Don’t let the caliper/lines hang or twist.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

  • Use a wrench and socket to remove the end link nut at the strut bracket.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with the correct Allen key while turning the nut with a wrench.
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Mark alignment reference (important)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut-to-knuckle area before loosening bolts.
  • This helps you get close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack (light support only).
  • Use a breaker bar with the correct-size socket to remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts.
  • If the bolts are stuck, use a hammer and punch to drive them out carefully.
  • Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a socket and ratchet to remove the upper strut mount nuts (leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut).
  • Support the strut from below with one hand, then remove the last nut and lower the strut out.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 7: If reusing the spring, transfer parts to the new strut

  • Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and tighten both sides evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the upper seat.
  • Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
  • Move the spring, upper mount/bearing, boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
  • Install the center nut and torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs), then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
  • Keep hands out of the spring’s path.

Step 8: Install the strut assembly

  • Position the strut up into the strut tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a socket.
  • Align the lower strut with the steering knuckle and slide the bolts in.
  • Install the nuts and tighten using a socket and breaker bar.
  • Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) for upper mount nuts.

Step 9: Reattach sway link, brake hose bracket, and ABS clips

  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench and socket.
  • Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the brake hose bracket with a 10mm socket and ratchet.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
  • Re-clip the ABS wire using the original clips and a trim clip tool.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Install the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a socket and ratchet.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm nothing rubs or pulls tight (brake hose/ABS wire).
  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
  • Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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