How to Replace Front Struts on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (MacPherson Strut Guide) (Trim: Nismo RS)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (MacPherson Strut Guide) (Trim: Nismo RS)
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools/parts, safety tips, torque specs, and alignment notes for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Juke - Strut Replacement
On your Juke, the front suspension uses MacPherson struts (the strut is the shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn/leaking struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact. Plan on getting an alignment afterward.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front struts)
Assumption: Torque values below match typical 2016 Juke specs; verify if anything differs.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Coil springs store a lot of energy—use a spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) or buy complete pre-assembled struts to avoid compressing springs.
- Always support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Keep the steering knuckle supported so the axle/inner CV joint isn’t over-stretched when the strut is out.
- If you remove any ABS/brake line clips, re-secure them exactly to prevent rubbing and brake line damage.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set 3/8" & 1/2" drive (10mm–22mm)
- Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Extensions (3" and 6")
- Allen key set (5mm–8mm)
- Trim clip tool
- Pry bar (18" minimum)
- Hammer (2 lb)
- Punch set
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs (Left + Right) - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if worn) - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Crack the front wheel lug nuts loose using a breaker bar and correct-size socket before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway link nuts and let it soak while you set up.
- If you’re not using complete pre-assembled struts, set your spring compressor and pass-through strut nut sockets nearby.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the front end
- Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Juke at the proper front jack point.
- Set it down securely on jack stands.
- Remove both front wheels using a socket and ratchet.
Step 2: Unclip brake hose and ABS wire from the strut
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt(s) from the strut.
- Use a trim clip tool to release ABS wire clips from the strut body.
- Don’t let the caliper/lines hang or twist.
Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
- Use a wrench and socket to remove the end link nut at the strut bracket.
- If the stud spins, hold it with the correct Allen key while turning the nut with a wrench.
- Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 4: Mark alignment reference (important)
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut-to-knuckle area before loosening bolts.
- This helps you get close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
Step 5: Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack (light support only).
- Use a breaker bar with the correct-size socket to remove the two large strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts.
- If the bolts are stuck, use a hammer and punch to drive them out carefully.
- Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- Use a socket and ratchet to remove the upper strut mount nuts (leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut).
- Support the strut from below with one hand, then remove the last nut and lower the strut out.
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 7: If reusing the spring, transfer parts to the new strut
- Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and tighten both sides evenly with a ratchet until the spring is loose in the upper seat.
- Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
- Move the spring, upper mount/bearing, boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
- Install the center nut and torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs), then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.
- Keep hands out of the spring’s path.
Step 8: Install the strut assembly
- Position the strut up into the strut tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a socket.
- Align the lower strut with the steering knuckle and slide the bolts in.
- Install the nuts and tighten using a socket and breaker bar.
- Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) for upper mount nuts.
Step 9: Reattach sway link, brake hose bracket, and ABS clips
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using a wrench and socket.
- Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the brake hose bracket with a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
- Re-clip the ABS wire using the original clips and a trim clip tool.
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Install the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a socket and ratchet.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Final-tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm nothing rubs or pulls tight (brake hose/ABS wire).
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
- Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, plus alignment)
You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















