How to Replace Front Struts on a 2010-2015 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace Front Struts on a 2010-2015 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step loaded strut assembly guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Tucson - Front Strut Assembly Replacement
This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Tucson. The strut supports the vehicle’s weight, controls bouncing, and helps keep the tires planted while steering and braking.
For a beginner DIYer, the safest method is replacing the complete loaded strut assembly, which comes with the spring already installed. This avoids compressing the coil spring, which can be dangerous.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so the suspension stays balanced.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the top of the strut unless the spring is safely compressed with the correct equipment.
- ⚠️ A coil spring stores a lot of force and can cause serious injury if released incorrectly.
- ⚠️ Support your Tucson with jack stands before working underneath or near the wheels.
- ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands safely hold it up.
- ⚠️ Keep brake hoses and ABS wires from stretching when the strut is removed.
- ⚠️ Your Tucson has front wheel speed sensor wiring near the strut. Unclip it gently before moving the strut.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 17mm wrench
- 19mm wrench
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Paint marker
- Rubber mallet
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
- Wheel alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Tucson on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the vehicle from rolling.
- Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
- Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nut, and brake hose bracket bolts.
- Open the hood so you can reach the three upper strut mounting nuts on each side.
- Plan to get a front wheel alignment after the repair. Removing the strut can change camber and toe angles.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen wheels while tires touch ground.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center subframe lift area.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front side pinch weld or approved front support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to make sure it is stable before removing the wheels.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the front lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Mark the Strut Position
- Use a paint marker to mark around the lower strut where it meets the steering knuckle.
- The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the strut.
- This mark helps you put the new strut close to the old position until the alignment is done.
Step 5: Disconnect the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to gently release any plastic wire clips from the strut.
- Move the brake hose and wire aside without pulling or stretching them.
Step 6: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Strut
- The sway bar link is a short rod that connects the sway bar to the strut and helps reduce body roll in turns.
- Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut bracket.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench while loosening the nut with the 17mm socket.
- Push the sway bar link out of the strut bracket by hand.
Step 7: Support the Steering Knuckle
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the lower control arm to lightly support the suspension.
- Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
- This keeps the steering knuckle from dropping when the strut bolts are removed.
Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts
- Use a 19mm wrench on the bolt head and a 19mm socket with the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar on the nut.
- Remove the two lower strut-to-knuckle nuts.
- Tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet if they are tight.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to gently separate the knuckle from the strut bracket.
- Keep one hand on the knuckle so it does not pull on the axle, brake hose, or ABS wire.
Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mounting Nuts
- Under the hood, locate the three upper strut mounting nuts for the side you are replacing.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove two nuts completely.
- Loosen the third nut while holding the strut from below with your other hand.
- Remove the final nut and carefully lower the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the strut mount.
Step 10: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly
- Compare the new loaded strut assembly to the old one before installation.
- Make sure the brake hose bracket, sway bar link bracket, and top mounting studs face the same direction.
- Guide the new strut up into the strut tower by hand.
- Install the three upper mounting nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the upper strut mounting nuts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reconnect the Strut to the Steering Knuckle
- Line up the steering knuckle with the lower strut bracket using the pry bar 18-inch only if needed.
- Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts from the same direction they were removed.
- Install the nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm wrench, 19mm socket, and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the lower strut-to-knuckle nuts to Torque to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link
- Insert the sway bar link stud into the strut bracket.
- Install the nut by hand first.
- Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench while tightening with the 17mm socket.
Step 13: Reattach the Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Position the brake hose bracket back onto the strut.
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the brake hose bracket bolt to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Position the ABS wire bracket back onto the strut if equipped.
- Use a 10mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the ABS wire bracket bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted or rubbing the tire.
Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 13 for the opposite front strut.
- Use the same tools and torque values.
- Do one side at a time for reference.
Step 15: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Place each front wheel back onto the hub.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Lower your Tucson until the tires touch the ground fully.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel fully left and right while parked to confirm nothing rubs or pulls.
- ✅ Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing noises.
- ✅ Recheck the brake hose and ABS wire routing after the first short drive.
- ✅ Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear and steering pull.
- ✅ After 50-100 miles, recheck the front lug nut torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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Guide for Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly replace for these Hyundai vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |
| 2014 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |
| 2013 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |
| 2012 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |
| 2011 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |
| 2010 Hyundai Tucson | - | - | - |


















