🔧 Accord - Front Strut Replacement

On your Accord, the front suspension uses struts (a shock absorber built into the suspension assembly). Replacing worn struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and steering control, and it can stop clunks or bouncing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going under it.
• The coil spring is under heavy tension—if you are not using complete “quick strut” assemblies, you must use a spring compressor correctly to avoid serious injury.
• Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire; support it to prevent damage.
• After strut replacement, plan for a professional alignment—strut position affects alignment.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 1/2" torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" torque wrench (5-80 ft-lbs range)
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 6mm Allen key
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Replace in pairs (recommended if boots torn or loose) - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Recommended (hardware often rusted) - Qty: 2 sets

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Crack the front lug nuts loose using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• If you are not using “quick struts,” confirm you have a spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so you can safely remove the top nut.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Lift the front of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Unbolt brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut using a 12mm socket.
• Remove any ABS sensor wire/clip brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or needle-nose pliers (depending on clip style).
• Tip: Don’t pull on the wire—unclip it.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the end link nut using a 14mm socket (or 17mm socket, depending on end link) and hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if it spins.
• If the nut is seized, use penetrating oil and try again with a breaker bar.

Step 4: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle from underneath with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop when the strut comes off.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut’s position against the knuckle (helps keep alignment close until you get an alignment).
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar while holding the opposite side with a 19mm combination wrench.
• If the bolts are stuck, tap them out carefully using a hammer and pry bar to relieve tension.

Step 5: Remove the strut top nuts and take the strut out

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Do not remove the center top nut unless the spring is safely compressed with a spring compressor (specialty).

Step 6: If using quick struts, skip to Step 7

• If reusing your spring/mount, install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the top mount.
• Remove the center top nut using a 17mm socket while holding the strut shaft (tooling varies by strut design).
• Transfer the spring and mount components to the new strut in the same order, then tighten the center nut.
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides, until the spring seats fully.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut into the strut tower and start the three top nuts by hand.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and reinstall the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm combination wrench.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 14mm socket (or 17mm socket) and hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if needed.
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket using a 12mm socket and reinstall the ABS wire brackets/clips using a 10mm socket or needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Torque all fasteners

• Torque the upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
• Torque the sway bar end link nut using a torque wrench: Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Torque the brake hose bracket bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other front side

• Repeat Steps 1–9 for the other front strut.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing stretches, rubs, or pulls.
• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks; recheck that brake hose/ABS brackets are secured.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Re-torque lug nuts after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Note: The rear of your Accord uses shocks (not struts). If you want, I can walk you through rear shock replacement next.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor, both front)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only, both front)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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