🔧 Grand Cherokee - Strut Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the “struts” are the front coilover units (a shock with a coil spring around it). Replacing them restores ride control and can fix clunks, bouncing, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs store extreme force; use a proper spring compressor or install complete strut assemblies.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the spring ends and compressor hooks during compression.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a front wheel alignment is required to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-21mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm-21mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (external, threaded-rod style) (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete “quick-strut” type) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR front struts (bare) + upper strut mounts + strut bearings + spring isolators - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 each
• Front sway bar end links - Recommended if worn - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended - Qty: 4
• New upper mount nuts - Recommended - Qty: 6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1 turn using a breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and sway bar link nuts and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Tip: Complete strut assemblies avoid spring compressor risk.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front frame points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut

• Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut body.
• Use wrenches (typically 18mm) to remove the end link nut.
• If the stud spins, use a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty) or hold the stud with the built-in hex using an appropriate Allen key/socket (if equipped).
• Tip: Removing the link helps the knuckle swing out.

Step 3: Free any brackets/lines attached to the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire bracket(s) from the strut using the appropriate 10mm socket or trim clip tool (hardware varies).
• Use needle-nose pliers to pull any push-clips without tearing the hose/wire.
• Make sure lines have slack and are not stretched.

Step 4: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle joint where the strut meets the steering knuckle.
• This helps you reassemble close to the original alignment.

Step 5: Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") and correct-size socket set to remove the two large bolts/nuts holding the strut to the knuckle.
• Tap bolts out using a hammer (2 lb) and punch set if needed.
• Torque spec varies by suspension package; I’ll provide exact torque once you answer the quick questions below.

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
• Use a socket set to remove the upper mount nuts while holding the strut from below.
• Do not remove the center nut if you are reusing the spring (that nut holds the spring under tension).

Step 7: Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle

• Pull the knuckle outward slightly and guide the strut out.
• Use a pry bar (18") carefully if you need more clearance.

Step 8: If transferring the spring (only if NOT using complete assemblies)

• Install the spring compressor (external, threaded-rod style) (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring.
• Tighten each side evenly using the correct wrench set until the spring is loose in the perch.
• Remove the center top nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
• Move the spring and mount components to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Slowly release the compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.
• Spring compressor: tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter.

Step 9: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the strut up into the strut tower.
• Start the upper mount nuts by hand using your fingers, then snug with a socket set.
• Align the bottom of the strut with the knuckle and install the lower bolts using a hammer (2 lb) if needed (tap gently).
• Reattach the sway bar end link using wrenches.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket set or trim clip tool.
• Torque to factory spec after final positioning; I’ll give the exact values once you answer the questions below.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Bounce the front of the vehicle a few times and listen for clunks.
• Road test at low speed first, then moderate speed, checking for pulling or noises.
• Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 50-100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, depending on parts used)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

Two quick questions so I can give you the exact factory torque specs and the cleanest procedure:

• Are you replacing front struts only, or did you mean the rear shocks too?
• Did you buy complete strut assemblies (quick-struts), or are you transferring your existing springs?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.