🔧 Suburban - Front Strut Replacement

On your Suburban, the “struts” are the front coilover shock assemblies (a shock with a coil spring around it). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-5 hours (both fronts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the lower control arm and steering knuckle.
• ⚠️ If you are not replacing a complete strut assembly, a spring compressor is required (the spring stores a lot of energy).
• ⚠️ Don’t stretch or pull the ABS wire or brake hose while the strut is out.
• 🧯 Let suspension parts cool if you just drove; they can be hot.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (30–250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 1/2" drive (13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm)
• Wrench set (13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm)
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Pry bar (24")
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly (recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount hardware (if not included with assemblies) - Qty: 1 kit
• Front sway bar end link (optional if loose/worn) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔩 Break the front lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket (do not remove yet).
• 🧼 Spray strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar link nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
• ❓ Quick check so I don’t steer you wrong: are you replacing front struts only, or front + rear?
• ❓ Do you have electronic/air rear suspension (rear shocks with wires or air lines)?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front

• Use a floor jack under the front crossmember to lift the front.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails and lower onto stands.
• Remove both front wheels with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Unclip brackets from the strut

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove any retaining clips holding the ABS/brake line bracket to the strut (if equipped).
• Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket (varies by bracket) to remove bracket bolts from the strut body.
• Tip: Don’t let lines hang by tension.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it blocks access)

• Use an 18mm wrench on the nut and a matching tool on the stud (often a wrench on the flats) to remove the end link nut.
• If the link spins, use a paint marker to mark position, then hold the stud while loosening the nut.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 4: Remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two large bolts/nuts at the bottom of the strut where it clamps to the steering knuckle.
• If needed, tap the bolts out with a hammer (2 lb).
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• At the top of the strut tower, use a 15mm socket to remove the upper mount nuts.
• Leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut, then remove it last.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the strut assembly

• Lower the floor jack slightly (supporting the control arm) to create clearance.
• Work the strut out from the wheel well; use a pry bar (24") gently if needed.

Step 7: If using complete assemblies, install the new strut

• Position the new strut assembly into the strut tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket.
• Tighten lower bolts with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Tighten upper mount nuts with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 8: If NOT using complete assemblies (spring compressor path)

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the top nut with the appropriate socket/wrench while holding the shaft as required, then transfer spring and mount to the new strut.
• Slowly release the compressor, making sure the spring seats correctly in the top and bottom pockets.
• Tip: If unsure, use complete assemblies.

Step 9: Reattach brackets and end link

• Reinstall ABS/brake line brackets using the correct 13mm or 15mm socket.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm wrench and torque: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• 🛞 Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible (strut removal can change alignment).
• 🔍 Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.