🔧 Explorer - Front Strut Replacement

On your Explorer, the front suspension uses struts (a strut is a shock absorber that also supports the coil spring and helps locate the wheel). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear and braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both fronts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Coil springs store huge force—use a spring compressor correctly or use complete strut assemblies to avoid compressing springs.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on the frame—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressed.
• ⚠️ After strut replacement, a front wheel alignment is required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 30-250 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (metric, 8mm-21mm)
• Wrench set (metric, 13mm-21mm)
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Allen/hex key set (metric)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front struts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Recommended if worn - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts.
• If you’re reusing the spring, inspect the coil for cracks and rust scaling before compressing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the truck onto jack stands and lightly shake it to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut

• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using an 18mm wrench or 18mm socket.
• If the stud spins, hold it with an Allen/hex key while turning the nut with the wrench.
• Tip: Penetrating oil helps a lot here.

Step 3: Free any brackets/lines attached to the strut

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire retaining clips or bracket fasteners from the strut using the appropriate socket set and a flat trim tool if needed.
• Move the hose/wire aside so it cannot get stretched when the knuckle drops.

Step 4: Mark camber position (if equipped)

• If your strut-to-knuckle hardware includes an alignment cam/washer, use a paint marker to mark its current position.
• This helps you drive to the alignment shop more safely, but you still must get an alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the lower control arm/knuckle area lightly with the floor jack.
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle using 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and a breaker bar.
• Tap the bolts out if needed (use the breaker bar to push and the pry bar to help separate).

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 13mm socket (leave the center shaft nut alone for now).
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut, then lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 7: Choose your parts path (complete assembly vs reusing spring)

• Option A (recommended): Complete strut assembly — Skip to Step 9.
• Option B: Reuse your coil spring — Continue to Step 8 using a spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that squeezes the spring shorter so it can be safely removed).

Step 8: Swap spring onto the new strut (only if reusing spring)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten each side evenly using the tool’s required socket/wrench.
• Compress until the spring is loose in the seats (you should be able to rotate it by hand).
• Remove the center shaft nut using a socket while holding the shaft with an Allen/hex key if required.
• Transfer the spring, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Install the new center shaft nut and tighten: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring is fully seated.

Step 9: Install the new strut into the tower

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the upper mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
• Do not fully tighten yet—just snug them to hold the strut.

Step 10: Attach the strut to the steering knuckle

• Raise the knuckle slightly with the floor jack to align the bolt holes.
• Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench.
• Tighten the bolts: Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reconnect sway bar end link and any brackets

• Reconnect the sway bar end link to the strut using an 18mm wrench/18mm socket.
• Tighten the end link nut: Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall any brake hose/ABS wire brackets/clips using the socket set.
• Tighten bracket fasteners: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Tighten the upper mount nuts

• Tighten the upper mount nuts evenly using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm no hoses/wires are pulled tight or rubbing.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck lug nut torque after ~25-50 miles: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only, both fronts)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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