🔧 Tacoma - Front Strut Assembly Replacement

This repair replaces the front strut assemblies on your Tacoma. The strut assembly supports the front suspension and helps control ride height, steering feel, tire contact, and braking stability.

For a beginner DIYer, the safest method is replacing the complete pre-assembled strut/spring assembly. This avoids compressing the coil spring, which can be dangerous if done incorrectly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support your Tacoma with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Replace front struts in pairs so the suspension handles evenly left-to-right.
• ⚠️ Do not remove the center nut on the top of the strut shaft unless the coil spring is safely compressed with professional equipment.
• ⚠️ A coil spring stores a lot of energy. A complete loaded strut assembly is strongly recommended for first-time DIY repair.
• ⚠️ Keep brake hoses, ABS wires, and 4WD axle boots from being stretched or pulled.
• ⚠️ After replacement, your Tacoma needs a professional wheel alignment.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench rated to 50 ft-lbs
• Combination wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Ball peen hammer 16-ounce
• Needle nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete loaded strut assembly - Left: 1, Right: 1 - Qty: 2
• Front strut lower mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets
• Front upper strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front sway bar link hardware - Qty: 2 sets

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on flat, solid ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
• Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, upper strut nuts, and sway bar link nuts.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen very tight bolts.
• A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct measured tightness so parts are secure but not over-tightened.
• No infotainment, scan-tool, EPB, ADAS, or battery registration procedure is required for this repair.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Tip: Loosen while tires touch ground.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame crossmember to raise your Tacoma.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails on both sides.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching the frame as a backup support.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the frame area as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Support the Lower Control Arm

• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the lower control arm near the lower ball joint.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the arm, not enough to lift the truck off the jack stand.
• The lower control arm is the large suspension arm under the front wheel hub.

Step 5: Disconnect the Sway Bar Link from the Lower Control Arm

• Use a 17mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, and matching combination wrench set 10mm-19mm if the stud spins.
• Remove the sway bar link nut from the lower control arm.
• A sway bar link connects the suspension to the anti-roll bar and helps reduce body roll.
• Move the link aside without bending it.

Step 6: Remove Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets if Attached

• Use a 12mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached near the strut area.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver gently if a plastic wire clip needs to be released.
• Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.
• The ABS wire is the small electrical wire for the wheel speed sensor.

Step 7: Mark the Lower Strut Bolt Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the lower strut mounting bolt and bracket.
• This helps keep the suspension close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
• Tip: Alignment is still required.

Step 8: Remove the Lower Strut Mounting Bolt

• Use a 19mm socket, 1/2-inch breaker bar, and a matching combination wrench set 10mm-19mm to loosen the lower strut bolt and nut.
• Remove the nut first, then slide the bolt out.
• If the bolt is stuck, use penetrating oil and tap it gently with a ball peen hammer 16-ounce.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to relieve pressure if the bolt is pinched.

Step 9: Remove the Upper Strut Mount Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the three upper strut mount nuts at the top of the front strut tower.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
• Do not remove the large center nut in the middle of the strut mount.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut so it does not drop suddenly.

Step 10: Remove the Old Strut Assembly

• Lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum slightly to create space.
• Guide the old strut assembly downward and out through the wheel well.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the lower mount is tight.
• Watch the CV axle boot so it does not get torn.

Step 11: Install the New Loaded Strut Assembly

• Position the new front complete loaded strut assembly into the strut tower.
• Start the three upper strut mounting nuts by hand first.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated to 50 ft-lbs to tighten the upper strut mounting nuts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Keep the lower part of the strut lined up with the lower control arm bracket.

Step 12: Install the Lower Strut Mounting Bolt

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the control arm until the holes line up.
• Slide the lower strut bolt through the mount by hand.
• Install the nut by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a 19mm socket, matching combination wrench set 10mm-19mm, and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs to tighten the lower strut bolt to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Sway Bar Link

• Insert the sway bar link stud back into the lower control arm.
• Install the nut by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket, matching combination wrench set 10mm-19mm, and torque wrench rated to 50 ft-lbs to tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall any brackets removed earlier.
• Tighten small bracket bolts snugly with the 3/8-inch ratchet; do not over-tighten them.
• Make sure the brake hose and ABS wire are not twisted, stretched, or rubbing the tire.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 14 on the opposite front strut.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Tip: Compare both sides as you go.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install the wheels by hand.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.

Step 17: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Tacoma fully to the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce the front of your Tacoma gently by hand. It should settle quickly without clunking.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for rubbing, popping, or hose tension.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
• ✅ Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs.
• ✅ If your steering wheel is off-center or the truck pulls, avoid highway driving until aligned.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours plus alignment time.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.