🔧 Pilot - Strut & Shock Replacement (Front Struts + Rear Shocks)

On your Pilot, the front uses complete strut assemblies (spring + shock together). The rear typically uses separate shocks with separate springs, so you’ll replace rear shocks (not a “rear strut assembly”).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Pilot on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ The front coil spring is under high tension; use a spring compressor (specialty) correctly or use complete quick-strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s “line of fire” while compressing.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a 4-wheel alignment is strongly recommended.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–22mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (12mm–22mm)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 6mm hex key socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Rubber mallet
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (left + right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers (left + right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Rear shock mounting hardware (nuts/bolts as needed) - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (when lifting the front).
• Break loose the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
• If you’re not using quick-struts: a spring compressor is a specialty tool that safely squeezes the coil spring so the top nut can be removed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar end link (front)

• Remove any ABS/brake hose brackets from the strut using a 10mm or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key socket to hold the stud if it spins.

Step 3: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle (front)

• Support the knuckle/lower control arm area with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop and pull on the axle/brake hose.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker as a reference.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm or 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• Tap bolts out carefully with a rubber mallet if needed.

Step 4: Remove the strut assembly (front)

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 5: If reusing springs (skip if using quick-struts)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) onto the coil spring and compress evenly, alternating sides.
• Remove the center top nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
• Transfer the spring and mount parts to the new strut in the same order.
• Take a photo before disassembly.

Step 6: Install the new front strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and start the three upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm or 22mm socket.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key socket.
• Reinstall any ABS/brake hose brackets using a 10mm or 12mm socket.
• Tighten upper mount nuts: Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
• Tighten strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).
• Tighten sway bar end link nut: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall front wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the front off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 9: Remove the rear shocks

• Support the rear lower control arm slightly with the floor jack.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm or 19mm socket (varies by position) and a breaker bar.
• Access the upper shock mount fastener(s) and remove using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the rear shock from the vehicle.

Step 10: Install the new rear shocks

• Install the upper mount fastener(s) by hand first using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm or 19mm socket.
• Tighten upper mount fastener(s): Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).
• Tighten lower shock bolt: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall rear wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the rear off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
• Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front struts affect alignment).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $500-$1,300 (parts only)

You Save: $900-$1,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.