🔧 HR-V - Strut Replacement

On your HR-V, the front suspension uses struts (spring + shock in one unit). The rear uses separate shocks with separate springs—so the rear job is different even though people often say “rear struts.”

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: Front: 3-5 hours (both) | Rear shocks: 1.5-3 hours (both)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• ⚠️ A coil spring stores a lot of energy. If you are not installing complete strut assemblies, a spring compressor is required and can be dangerous if misused.
• ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire relaxed—do not let the knuckle hang by them.
• ⚠️ After front struts, you should get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Impact wrench (optional)
• Socket set (8mm-22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• Honda/trim clip remover tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (complete/quick-strut, recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR front struts (bare) + front strut mounts/bearings (if worn) + dust boots/bump stops (if worn) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links (optional, if loose/boot torn) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts (as required) - Qty: as needed
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Use a breaker bar to loosen lug nuts about 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nuts, and rear shock bolts 10-15 minutes before removal.
• If you’re not using complete strut assemblies: set up the spring compressor (it compresses the coil spring so the top nut can be removed safely).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel(s)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper jack point.
• Place the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2 (Front): Disconnect brackets and the sway bar link from the strut

• Remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut using a 10mm socket.
• Unclip/remove the ABS wire bracket(s) from the strut using a clip remover tool and/or 10mm socket.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench and Allen key (if the stud spins). Hold the stud; don’t tear the boot.

Step 3 (Front): Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Mark the bolt positions with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") with 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• If the bolts are stuck, use penetrating oil and tap them out with a rubber mallet.

Step 4 (Front): Remove the strut top nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood.
• Remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket. Leave one nut threaded a few turns until you’re ready to catch the strut.
• Hold the strut, remove the last nut with a 14mm socket, and lift the strut out.

Step 5 (Front): Transfer spring/mount (only if NOT using complete strut assemblies)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the center top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) with the appropriate Allen key.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut in the same order.
• Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring ends seat correctly.

Step 6 (Front): Install the new strut and torque fasteners

• Position the strut in the strut tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and reinstall the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts to 127 N·m (94 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Torque the strut mount nuts to 44 N·m (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall the sway bar link nut using a 17mm wrench. Torque to 44 N·m (33 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket. Torque the brake hose bracket bolt to 22 N·m (16 ft-lbs).

Step 7 (Rear): Remove the rear shock (rear suspension uses shocks, not struts)

• Lift and support the rear, then remove the rear wheel using a 19mm socket.
• Support the rear lower control arm slightly with a floor jack.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Access the upper shock mount inside the rear interior side area (trim access varies). Remove fasteners with a clip remover tool and 10mm socket.
• Remove the upper shock mount nut(s) using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.

Step 8 (Rear): Install the new rear shock and torque fasteners

• Install the shock into the upper mount and hand-start the nut(s) using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 64 N·m (47 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Torque the rear upper shock nut(s) to 44 N·m (33 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall interior trim using a clip remover tool.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and set the vehicle down

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench, in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the steering wheel is centered.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing front struts.
• If you hear a spring “pop” on turns, stop and re-check spring seating/top mount.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $350-$1,000 (parts only, depends on assemblies vs bare struts)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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