🔧 Fusion - Strut Replacement

On your Fusion, the front suspension uses struts, but the rear uses shocks (not struts). Replacing worn struts restores ride control, braking stability, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Strut springs store dangerous force—use a coil spring compressor (specialty) correctly, or install complete quick-strut assemblies to avoid compressing springs.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep clear of orange high-voltage cables and hybrid components; you do not need to open the hybrid system for this job.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire—support it with a strap.
• ⚠️ If removing wheels near traffic, set parking brake and chock rear wheels.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• Socket set 8mm-24mm
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-250 ft-lbs range)
• Wrench set 8mm-24mm
• Torx bit set
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Punch set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly (complete “quick-strut” recommended) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end link - Qty: 2 (optional if worn)
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Qty: 2 sets (recommended if specified as one-time-use)
• Rear shock absorber - Qty: 2 (rear uses shocks, not struts)
• Rear upper/lower shock hardware - Qty: 2 sets (recommended if corroded)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the car off, and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
• Chock the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and sway bar end link nuts 10–15 minutes before removal.
• If you’re not installing complete quick-struts: set up your coil spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring shorter so it can be safely removed).
• Plan on getting a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

FRONT (Struts) — Recommended path: Replace complete strut assemblies

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a lug wrench or 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn while on the ground.
• Lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and the sway bar end link from the strut

• Use needle-nose pliers and a trim clip tool to release any ABS wire/brake hose clips from the strut body.
• Use the correct socket and wrench to remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut.
• If the stud spins, use a Torx bit in the stud while turning the nut with a wrench. Clean threads first for easier removal.

Step 3: Support the steering knuckle

• Use a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire to support the knuckle so it can’t drop and pull on the brake hose/ABS wire.

Step 4: Remove strut-to-knuckle fasteners

• Mark the knuckle/strut relationship with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Use a breaker bar with the correct socket and wrench to remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
• Use a hammer and punch to tap bolts out if stuck.
• Separate the strut from the knuckle using a pry bar as needed.

Step 5: Remove the strut assembly from the car

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
• Support the strut from below with one hand, then use a ratchet and correct socket to remove the upper strut mount nuts.
• Remove the strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 6: If reusing the spring (only if NOT using quick-struts)

• Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a ratchet.
• Confirm the spring is loose in the seats before removing the top nut.
• Use a socket and appropriate Torx bit (if required) to remove the strut shaft nut.
• Transfer the spring, boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut in the same order.
• Slowly release the compressor evenly until the spring seats fully. Never point the spring at your body.

Step 7: Install the new front strut assembly

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using the correct socket.
• Align the strut to the knuckle, install the lower bolts, and snug using a ratchet and correct socket/wrench.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using the correct socket/wrench.
• Reattach ABS/brake hose brackets and clips using pliers and a trim clip tool.
• Tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench to factory specification for your Fusion.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to factory specification.

REAR (Shocks) — If you also meant the rear

Step 9: Lift rear and remove rear wheels

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Use a lug wrench or 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts, lift with a floor jack, and support with jack stands.
• Remove rear wheels with a 19mm socket.

Step 10: Remove and replace each rear shock

• Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Use the correct socket and wrench to remove the lower shock bolt.
• Access and remove the upper shock fastener(s) using a ratchet and correct socket.
• Install the new shock, start all fasteners by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench to factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck that ABS wire and brake hose are clipped back into place.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench to factory specification.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs reusing springs)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.