🔧 Journey - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Journey, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front is a strut (a shock + spring assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1-2 hours | Front struts: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never work under a jack-only vehicle.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a compressed spring. If you are not using complete “quick struts,” a spring compressor is required (it clamps the spring so it can’t release violently).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
• ⚠️ If replacing front struts, plan for a wheel alignment immediately after.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is normally required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2")
• Wrench set (8mm–24mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader bit (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front complete strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing kit - If not using quick struts - Qty: 2
• Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Recommended - Qty: 4
• New rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Recommended - Qty: 2-4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that will stay on the ground with wheel chocks.
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the vehicle using a breaker bar and correct lug socket.
• Spray visible suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
• Tip: Replace left and right as a set.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear (or front) at the approved jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheels using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Rear shocks — support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear control arm (near the wheel) to lightly support it.
• This prevents the suspension from dropping suddenly when the shock bolt comes out.

Step 3: Rear shocks — remove the lower shock bolt

• Use a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2") and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the control arm with the floor jack to release tension.

Step 4: Rear shocks — remove the upper mount fastener(s)

• Locate the upper shock mount fastener(s). Access may be from the wheel well or behind interior trim depending on configuration.
• Remove any small trim clips using a flat trim tool.
• Remove the upper fastener(s) using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Remove the shock absorber.

Step 5: Rear shocks — install the new shock

• Position the new shock and start the upper fastener(s) by hand using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Align the lower eyelet with the suspension bracket by raising/lowering the control arm using the floor jack.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Torque rear lower shock bolt to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Torque rear upper mount fastener(s) to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
• Tip: Final-torque with suspension at normal height.

Step 6: Front struts — remove brackets and link attachments

• Turn the steering for access as needed.
• Unclip/remove any ABS wire and brake hose brackets from the strut using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2") and needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) link nut from the strut using a wrench set (8mm–24mm) and socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Torque stabilizer link-to-strut nut to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 7: Front struts — mark and separate strut from steering knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut to the knuckle (helps keep alignment close).
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2") and breaker bar (1/2").
• If the knuckle clamps the strut, use a strut spreader bit (specialty) to gently open the clamp.
• Use a pry bar (18") as needed to guide the knuckle off the strut.
• Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 163 Nm (120 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 8: Front struts — remove the strut assembly

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower top nuts.
• Support the strut from below with one hand while removing the top nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Torque strut mount top nuts to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 9: Front struts — swap parts (quick strut vs spring compressor)

• If using quick struts: skip to Step 10 (they come pre-assembled).
• If reusing the spring: install a spring compressor (specialty) and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center shaft nut using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2") and wrench set (8mm–24mm), then transfer spring and mount to the new strut.
• Slowly release the compressor and confirm the spring ends seat correctly in the pockets.
• Tip: If unsure, use quick struts.

Step 10: Front struts — install the strut assembly

• Place the strut into the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Guide the knuckle onto the strut using a pry bar (18") and align your paint marks.
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2") and breaker bar (1/2").
• Reconnect sway bar link and all brackets using a wrench set (8mm–24mm) and socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Torque strut mount top nuts to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
• Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 163 Nm (120 ft-lbs).
• Torque stabilizer link-to-strut nut to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2").
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the vehicle tracks straight.
• Recheck for any loose brackets, hoses, or wire clips near the struts/shocks.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench (20–250 ft-lbs range).
• Tip: New struts can feel firm at first.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,500 (parts + labor, rear only vs front+rear)

DIY Cost: $180-$800 (parts only, depending on quick struts)

You Save: $420-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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