How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools list, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu
Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools list, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes


đź”§ Malibu - Shock/Strut Replacement
Your Malibu uses rear shock absorbers and front strut assemblies (a strut is a shock with a coil spring around it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate (rear) / Advanced (front) | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (rear pair) / 3-5 hours (front pair)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never work under a jack.
- 🛑 For front struts, the coil spring is under high tension; use a spring compressor or install complete “quick struts.”
- 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points while lowering/raising the suspension arm.
- 🛑 If you replace front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment afterward.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8"
- Torque wrench 1/2"
- Socket set metric 8mm-24mm
- Wrench set metric 8mm-24mm
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Pry bar
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional recommended - Qty: 2 sets
- Rear shock mounting hardware - Optional recommended - Qty: 2 sets
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar and correct socket before lifting.
- Spray mounting bolts with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the car
- Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on at the proper jacking point.
- Set the car on jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
- Remove the wheels using a ratchet and correct socket.
Step 2: Rear shocks (recommended starting point)
- Rear shocks are simpler and safer.
- Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock bolt comes out.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using an 18mm socket and breaker bar while holding the nut with an 18mm wrench if needed.
- Access the upper shock mount fasteners (typically inside the trunk/behind trim). Remove any covers using a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Pull the shock out. You may need a pry bar to guide it free.
- Install the new rear shock in place and hand-start the upper nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Line up the lower mount by raising/lowering the suspension arm with the floor jack, then install the lower bolt using an 18mm socket.
- Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Tighten with a torque wrench: Lower shock bolt: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)
Step 3: Reassemble rear trim and repeat on the other side
- Reinstall trunk/liner trim using your trim clip tool.
- Repeat Step 2 on the other rear side. Replace shocks in pairs.
Step 4: Front struts (two options: quick strut vs spring swap)
- Quick struts avoid spring-compressor risk.
- Turn the steering to give yourself room, and mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship using a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
- Disconnect the stabilizer (sway) bar end link from the strut using an 18mm socket and wrench as needed.
- Unclip any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket (commonly 10mm) and a flathead screwdriver.
- Support the knuckle area lightly with the floor jack.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar while holding the nut with a matching wrench.
- Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket, then remove the strut assembly.
Step 5: If installing complete front strut assemblies (quick struts)
- Position the new assembly in the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Slide the knuckle into place and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm socket.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket.
- Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs)
- Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
Step 6: If reusing springs (not recommended for first-timers)
- Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. Compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
- Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
- Move the spring and mount to the new strut, then tighten the center nut using the same specialty tools.
- Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring seats correctly in the upper and lower perches.
Step 7: Wheels back on and lower the car
- Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a socket and ratchet.
- Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Wheel lug nuts: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
âś… After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering feels normal.
- Recheck for any loose brackets, hose routing issues, or rubbing.
- If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- After 50-100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)
DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depends on quick struts vs shocks)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















