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2014 Chevrolet Malibu
2014 Chevrolet Malibu
LS - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Rear Shocks 2013-2015 Chevy Malibu

How to Replace Rear Shocks 2013-2015 Chevy Malibu

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools list, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2014 Chevrolet Malibu

Step-by-step suspension repair guide with tools list, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Malibu - Shock/Strut Replacement

Your Malibu uses rear shock absorbers and front strut assemblies (a strut is a shock with a coil spring around it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (rear) / Advanced (front) | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (rear pair) / 3-5 hours (front pair)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never work under a jack.
  • 🛑 For front struts, the coil spring is under high tension; use a spring compressor or install complete “quick struts.”
  • 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points while lowering/raising the suspension arm.
  • 🛑 If you replace front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment afterward.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 3/8"
  • Torque wrench 1/2"
  • Socket set metric 8mm-24mm
  • Wrench set metric 8mm-24mm
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Trim clip tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Pry bar
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Optional recommended - Qty: 2 sets
  • Rear shock mounting hardware - Optional recommended - Qty: 2 sets

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
  • Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar and correct socket before lifting.
  • Spray mounting bolts with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on at the proper jacking point.
  • Set the car on jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove the wheels using a ratchet and correct socket.

Step 2: Rear shocks (recommended starting point)

  • Rear shocks are simpler and safer.
  • Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock bolt comes out.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using an 18mm socket and breaker bar while holding the nut with an 18mm wrench if needed.
  • Access the upper shock mount fasteners (typically inside the trunk/behind trim). Remove any covers using a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver.
  • Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Pull the shock out. You may need a pry bar to guide it free.
  • Install the new rear shock in place and hand-start the upper nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Line up the lower mount by raising/lowering the suspension arm with the floor jack, then install the lower bolt using an 18mm socket.
  • Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench: Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
  • Tighten with a torque wrench: Lower shock bolt: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

Step 3: Reassemble rear trim and repeat on the other side

  • Reinstall trunk/liner trim using your trim clip tool.
  • Repeat Step 2 on the other rear side. Replace shocks in pairs.

Step 4: Front struts (two options: quick strut vs spring swap)

  • Quick struts avoid spring-compressor risk.
  • Turn the steering to give yourself room, and mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship using a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
  • Disconnect the stabilizer (sway) bar end link from the strut using an 18mm socket and wrench as needed.
  • Unclip any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket (commonly 10mm) and a flathead screwdriver.
  • Support the knuckle area lightly with the floor jack.
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar while holding the nut with a matching wrench.
  • Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket, then remove the strut assembly.

Step 5: If installing complete front strut assemblies (quick struts)

  • Position the new assembly in the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 13mm socket.
  • Slide the knuckle into place and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket.
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link using an 18mm socket.
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket.
  • Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
  • Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs)
  • Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 6: If reusing springs (not recommended for first-timers)

  • Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring. Compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
  • Remove the center strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
  • Move the spring and mount to the new strut, then tighten the center nut using the same specialty tools.
  • Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring seats correctly in the upper and lower perches.

Step 7: Wheels back on and lower the car

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a socket and ratchet.
  • Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Wheel lug nuts: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

âś… After Repair

  • Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering feels normal.
  • Recheck for any loose brackets, hose routing issues, or rubbing.
  • If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
  • After 50-100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depends on quick struts vs shocks)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.


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