How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry (Trim: Hybrid SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step quick-strut install guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry (Trim: Hybrid SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step quick-strut install guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
đź”§ Camry - Strut Replacement
On your Camry, the front uses complete strut assemblies (strut + spring + mount), while the rear typically uses separate shock absorbers (the rear spring is separate from the shock). Replacing worn struts/shocks restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear control.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; using complete front “quick-strut” assemblies (recommended for beginners).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Keep clear of orange hybrid cables; do not pry or pull on them.
- ⚠️ If you reuse front springs, a spring compressor can be dangerous if used incorrectly; consider quick-struts to avoid compressing springs.
- ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a wheel alignment is required to prevent pulling and tire wear.
- ⚠️ Work on a cool vehicle; avoid hot brakes/rotors.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (10-80 ft-lbs)
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (50-200 ft-lbs)
- Socket set metric 10mm-22mm
- Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
- Allen key set metric (for sway bar link, if required)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Paint marker
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Hammer 24oz
- Penetrating oil
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolt and nut set - Qty: 2
- Rear shock upper mount kit - Qty: 2
- Penetrating oil - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels before lifting the front (and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear).
- Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray strut bolts and sway bar link nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
- If using a spring compressor: it is a tool that squeezes the coil spring shorter so the top mount can be removed safely—use extreme caution and follow the tool’s instructions.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Use a floor jack to lift the front at the center jacking point.
- Place jack stands at the front pinch welds/subframe points and lower onto them.
- Remove lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket and take off both front wheels.
Step 2: Disconnect brackets and sway bar link from the strut
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket (and trim clip tool if clips are present).
- Remove the front sway bar end link nut at the strut using wrench/socket set metric 14mm-17mm.
- If the end link spins, hold the stud with an Allen key set metric while turning the nut with a wrench.
Step 3: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle to help keep alignment close.
- Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop and strain the axle.
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the knuckle using a breaker bar with 19mm-22mm sockets (sizes vary by hardware).
- Tap bolts out with a hammer if needed; use a pry bar gently to separate.
Step 4: Remove the front strut assembly
- Open the hood and locate the three strut mount nuts at the strut tower.
- While holding the strut from below, remove the three mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Lower and remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 5: Install the new front strut assembly
- Position the new strut into the tower and hand-start the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Align the strut with the knuckle and install the lower bolts/nuts using 19mm-22mm sockets.
- Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive:
- Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the front strut mount nuts.
- Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) for the front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
- Reconnect the sway bar end link and torque with a torque wrench:
- Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the front sway bar link nut.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket:
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) for small bracket bolts.
- Tip: Start all bolts by hand first.
Step 6: Reinstall front wheels and lower
- Reinstall wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Lower the vehicle off jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench:
- Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Replace the rear shocks
- Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Lift the rear with a floor jack, set on jack stands, and remove rear wheels with a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Support the rear suspension arm slightly with the floor jack.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using 17mm-19mm socket/wrench.
- Access the upper shock nuts (commonly behind trunk side trim); remove trim clips with a trim clip tool.
- Remove upper shock nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
- Install the new shock, hand-start upper nuts, then install lower bolt.
- Torque with a torque wrench:
- Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) for rear shock upper nuts.
- Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) for the rear shock lower bolt.
- Reinstall trunk trim and clips using needle-nose pliers as needed.
Step 8: Reinstall rear wheels and lower
- Reinstall rear wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts with a torque wrench:
- Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
- Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive using a torque wrench.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front struts).
- Watch for warning lights; if ABS light appears, recheck ABS wire routing and clips.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,000-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$1,000 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$1,200 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly replace for these Toyota vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Toyota Camry | Hybrid SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Toyota Camry | XSE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Toyota Camry | XSE | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | Hybrid SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | XSE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Toyota Camry | XSE | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | Hybrid SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | XSE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Toyota Camry | XSE | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | SE | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2014 Toyota Camry | Hybrid SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Toyota Camry | SE | V6 3.5L | - |
| 2012 Toyota Camry | SE | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2012 Toyota Camry | SE | V6 3.5L | - |


















