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2009 Honda Civic
2009 Honda Civic
DX - Inline 4 1.8L
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2006-2011 Honda Civic Shock & Strut Replacement. (Front & Rear)

2006-2011 Honda Civic Shock & Strut Replacement. (Front & Rear)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2009 Honda Civic (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shocks on a 2009 Honda Civic (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

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đź”§ Civic - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Civic, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (shock + spring together), while the rear uses a separate rear shock absorber with a separate spring. The steps and tools are different depending on whether you’re doing the front, rear, or all four.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.0-2.0 hours | Front: 3.0-5.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Suspension springs store a lot of energy—only compress a spring with a proper coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter).
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ If you are reusing front springs, keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressing.
  • ⚠️ After installation, you need a 4-wheel alignment (especially after front struts).
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (5-60 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (10mm-19mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm-19mm)
  • Pry bar
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Allen key set (for sway link stud)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear shock absorber - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock upper mount (if worn/noisy) - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock dust boot/bump stop (if damaged) - Qty: 2
  • Front strut assemblies (complete “quick-strut” type) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • OR Front struts (cartridge/strut) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mounts/bearings (recommended if reusing springs) - Qty: 2
  • Front strut dust boots/bump stops - Qty: 2
  • New self-locking nuts/bolts (as needed) - Qty: 1 set

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires (if doing front) or in front of the front tires (if doing rear).
  • Break the lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting the car.
  • Spray fasteners with penetrating oil (rear lower shock bolt; front strut-to-knuckle bolts; sway bar end link nut) and let it soak.
  • If you are not installing complete front quick-struts, plan to use a coil spring compressor and work slowly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on, then support with jack stands.
  • Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Rear shock removal (rear procedure)

  • Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (just snug, not lifting the car).
  • Remove the rear shock lower bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Open the trunk and remove the side trim access as needed using a flat trim tool.
  • Remove the rear shock upper mounting nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Pull the shock out from underneath.

Step 3: Rear shock installation (rear procedure)

  • Install the new shock into position and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
  • With the suspension supported at normal-ish height (control arm supported by the jack), torque fasteners:
  • Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs) for the rear shock upper nuts.
  • Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the rear shock lower bolt.

Step 4: Front strut removal (front procedure)

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench; use an Allen key to hold the stud if it spins.
  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
  • Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Open the hood and remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 5: If reusing springs (only if NOT using quick-struts)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly.
  • Remove the strut shaft nut using the appropriate socket and Allen key (method varies by strut design).
  • Transfer the upper mount/bearing, spring, boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
  • Slowly release the compressor and ensure the spring ends seat correctly in their pockets. Double-check spring seating before fully releasing.

Step 6: Front strut installation (front procedure)

  • Position the strut in the tower and start the three upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket.
  • Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and Allen key as needed.
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque fasteners:
  • Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the front upper strut mount nuts.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the front sway bar end link nut.
  • Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) for the front strut-to-knuckle bolts.

Step 7: Reinstall wheels

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front struts).
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 19mm socket and torque wrench.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depends on quick-struts vs struts)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


Two quick questions so I can tailor this perfectly:

  • đź”§ Are you replacing rear shocks only, front struts only, or all four?
  • đź”§ For the front: are you buying complete quick-strut assemblies, or reusing your springs?
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