🔧 Altima - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Altima, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (often called “front shocks”), and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn units restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear only: 1.5-3 hours)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ If you disassemble a front strut, the spring is under high tension—use a coil spring compressor (a tool that squeezes the spring safely) or replace complete strut assemblies instead.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points at the steering knuckle and suspension arms.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 20–200 ft-lbs
• Socket set (8mm–22mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kits - If not included with assemblies - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mounts/bushings - If worn/cracked - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts (strut/shock hardware) - If supplied/required - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and chock the rear wheels (or front wheels if doing rear shocks).
• Break the lug nuts loose before lifting: use a 19mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts (front) or shock bolts (rear) and let it soak 10 minutes.
• If you’re a first-timer, strongly consider complete front strut assemblies to avoid spring compressor work.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the factory jack point.
• Place jack stands under solid pinch weld/approved support points and lower onto them.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2 (Front): Disconnect brackets and the stabilizer link

• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key if the stud spins.
• Tip: Mark bracket locations with paint marker.

Step 3 (Front): Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack lightly (just enough to hold it).
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions using a paint marker.
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Tap the bolts out using a rubber mallet and work the knuckle free from the strut.

Step 4 (Front): Remove the strut assembly from the car

• Open the hood.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Lower the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 5 (Front): Install the new front strut assembly

• Position the new strut up into the strut tower and hand-thread the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the steering knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Reconnect the stabilizer end link using a 17mm wrench.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket.
• Tighten fasteners to specification with a torque wrench:
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs)
• Front strut top mount nuts: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
• Stabilizer end link nut (at strut): Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)

Step 6 (Rear): Access the upper shock mount nuts

• Open the trunk and pull back the trunk side trim near the shock tower.
• Remove any plastic clips using a flathead screwdriver and needle-nose pliers.
• Locate the shock’s upper mount nuts.

Step 7 (Rear): Remove the rear shock

• Support the rear suspension arm slightly using the floor jack.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the upper mount nuts in the trunk using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the shock from underneath the car.

Step 8 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and loosely install the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower shock eye with the suspension arm and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Tighten fasteners to specification with a torque wrench:
• Rear shock lower bolt: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
• Rear shock upper nuts: Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Bounce each corner of the car to confirm nothing is loose and the ride settles quickly.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
• If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$800 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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