🔧 Explorer - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Explorer, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a strut assembly (a shock + coil spring together). I’ll show both procedures so you can do the end(s) you’re replacing safely and correctly.

Difficulty Level: Rear: Beginner–Intermediate | Front: Advanced | Estimated Time: Rear: 1–2 hours | Front: 3–5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Explorer on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring is under high tension—use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) or install complete “quick strut” assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust and debris fall easily.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 1/2-inch drive (13mm–24mm)
• Wrench set (13mm–24mm)
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Hammer 16 oz
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers (replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies (complete “quick struts,” recommended; replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount hardware kit (if not included with quick struts) - Qty: 1
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit (recommended) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the wheels.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 10–15 minutes.
• If doing front struts and not using quick struts: set up your coil spring compressor and inspect it for damage before use.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the Explorer

• Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on.
• Set it onto jack stands and give the vehicle a firm shake check.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Rear shock removal (rear shocks)

• Support the rear axle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock comes off.
• Use penetrating oil on the upper and lower shock fasteners.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using the appropriate socket set (typically 18mm–21mm) and breaker bar.
• Remove the upper shock mount fastener(s) using the appropriate socket set (typically 13mm–18mm).
• Pull the shock out. Use a pry bar if it’s stuck.

Step 3: Rear shock install (rear shocks)

• Install the new shock in position by hand.
• Start the upper mount fastener(s) by hand using a socket set.
• Start the lower bolt by hand. You may need to raise/lower the axle slightly with the floor jack to line up the holes.
• Tighten all rear shock fasteners using a torque wrench: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) unless your replacement shock kit specifies otherwise.
• Tip: Tighten evenly; don’t cross-thread.

Step 4: Front strut removal (front struts)

• Turn the steering for better access, or keep it straight if you prefer.
• Detach the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket set (typically 10mm–13mm) or pliers for clips.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a socket set (typically 18mm–21mm) and breaker bar.
• Under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a socket set (typically 13mm).
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well. Use a pry bar carefully if needed.

Step 5: Front strut install (front struts)

• Recommended: Install a complete quick strut (comes with spring pre-assembled).
• Position the strut, then hand-start the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
• Align the knuckle and install the strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand, then tighten using a socket set and breaker bar.
• Torque fasteners using a torque wrench:
  • Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts: Torque to 185 Nm (136 ft-lbs)
• Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket set: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 6: If transferring springs (only if NOT using quick struts)

• Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly.
• Remove the top strut nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
• Swap the spring and mount onto the new strut, then tighten the strut shaft nut: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the compressor and confirm the spring is seated correctly.
• Tip: If unsure, use quick struts instead.

Step 7: Reinstall wheels and lower

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the vehicle using a floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over bumps.
• Recheck all visible fasteners for tightness after the test drive.
• If you replaced front struts, schedule a wheel alignment.
• If handling feels bouncy, confirm you replaced shocks/struts in pairs.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,600 (parts + labor, rear vs front varies a lot)

DIY Cost: $150-$800 (parts only, rear shocks vs front quick struts)

You Save: $450-$800+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours (rear) or 3-5 hours (front).

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.