🔧 Crosstrek - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Crosstrek, the front “shocks” are part of the strut assemblies, and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle on jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ If you reuse front springs, a spring compressor is required; compressed springs store dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hose or ABS wire get stretched or pinched.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a wheel alignment is required.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Socket set (10mm–19mm)
• Wrench set (10mm–19mm)
• 6mm hex key
• Pry bar (12")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• OR Front struts (inserts) + front strut mounts/bearings - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (recommended) - Qty: 2 sets
• Rear shock mounting nuts/bolts (recommended) - Qty: 2 sets
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, put the shifter in gear, and chock the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the front strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear shock lower bolts 10–15 minutes before removal.
• Decide your approach: complete front strut assemblies (easier/safer) or reuse springs (requires spring compressor, a tool that squeezes the coil spring shorter so it can be removed safely).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center jacking point, then place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the pinch welds.
• Use a socket set (19mm) to remove the wheels after loosening lug nuts on the ground.

Step 2: Remove the front strut assembly (one side)

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove any ABS wire/clip retainers from the strut bracket (don’t pull on the wire).
• Use a socket set (12mm) to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut body.
• Use wrench set (14mm–17mm) and a 6mm hex key to remove the stabilizer (sway) bar end link nut from the strut. Hold the stud with the hex.
• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the strut to the knuckle (helps keep alignment close).
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") with socket set (19mm) to remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts.
• Support the knuckle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop and stress the CV joint.
• Open the hood and use a socket set (12mm) to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 3: Transfer parts (only if NOT using complete assemblies)

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Use a socket set and wrench set to remove the strut shaft nut and transfer the spring and mount to the new strut.
• Reassemble in the same order and slowly release the spring compressor (specialty) evenly.

Step 4: Install the front strut assembly (one side)

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the three upper nuts using a socket set (12mm).
• Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using socket set (19mm) and wrench set (19mm).
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs): Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Torque the three upper strut mount nuts using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs): Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using wrench set and 6mm hex key: Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt using a socket set (12mm): Torque to 33 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
• Reattach ABS wire/retainers by hand and with needle-nose pliers as needed.

Step 5: Repeat front strut replacement on the other side

• Repeat Steps 2–4 on the other front corner using the same tools.

Step 6: Remove the rear shock absorbers (one side)

• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks, then lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a socket set (19mm) to remove the rear wheel.
• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a socket set (17mm–19mm) and breaker bar (1/2") to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• Inside the cargo area, use a flat trim tool to remove the side trim access cover for the upper shock mount.
• Use a socket set (14mm) to remove the upper shock nuts, then remove the shock.

Step 7: Install the rear shock absorbers (one side)

• Install the new rear shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a socket set (14mm).
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt/nut using socket set and wrench set.
• Torque the upper shock nuts using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Torque the lower shock bolt/nut using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs): Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the interior trim access cover using a flat trim tool.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and set the vehicle down

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a socket set (19mm).
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs): Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Recheck that brake hose and ABS wire are clipped back into place.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (required after front struts).
• After 50–100 miles, recheck lug nut torque: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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