🔧 RX - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your RX, the “shocks” can mean the front strut assemblies (shock + spring as one unit) and/or the rear shock absorbers (separate from the spring). The steps, tools, and torque specs are different front vs rear, and also different if you’re swapping complete assemblies vs reusing the springs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours

Two quick questions so I can give the exact, correct procedure + torque specs:

• 🔎 Are you replacing front, rear, or all four?
• 🔎 Are you installing complete quick-strut/complete strut assemblies (pre-assembled), or reusing your springs with a spring compressor?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove a strut top nut with the spring loaded unless using a proper spring compressor.
• ⚠️ Support the RX with jack stands on solid lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points when lowering/raising the knuckle and control arms.
• ⚠️ If you disconnect any ride/ABS sensor wiring from brackets, do not stretch or twist the harness.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Upper strut mounts - If worn/noisy - Qty: 2
• Rear upper shock mounts - If worn/noisy - Qty: 2
• Bump stops and dust boots - If torn/worn - Qty: 1 set
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut/shock mounting - If required - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels (or front wheels if doing rears).
• Loosen lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil 10-15 minutes ahead of time.
• Plan on getting a 4-wheel alignment after front strut work. Alignment prevents tire wear.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Choose the correct procedure path

• If you’re doing front, you’ll remove the strut assembly (a shock with the coil spring around it).
• If you’re doing rear, you’ll remove the shock absorber (spring is separate).
• If you’re reusing springs, you must use a spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring).

Step 2: Lift and secure the RX

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower the RX onto them.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 3: Remove any brackets and sensor wire retainers from the strut/shock

• Use a trim clip tool or needle-nose pliers to release harness clips from the strut body.
• Use the appropriate socket set (8mm-24mm) to remove small bracket bolts.
• Tip: Take a photo before removing clips.

Step 4: Remove the strut/shock mounting fasteners

• Front (strut): Support the knuckle with a floor jack, then remove the lower strut-to-knuckle fasteners using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Rear (shock): Support the rear lower arm with a floor jack, then remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Do not torque yet until the suspension is at normal ride height (rear) and all hardware is started straight.

Step 5: Remove the upper mounting nuts and take the unit out

• Front (strut): Under the hood, remove the upper strut mount nuts using a socket set (8mm-24mm), then guide the strut out of the wheel well.
• Rear (shock): Access the upper shock mount (typically behind interior trim panels), remove the upper nuts with a socket set (8mm-24mm), then pull the shock out.
• Tip: Keep one nut loosely threaded until ready.

Step 6: Swap parts (assembly vs spring transfer)

• If installing complete assemblies, compare old vs new (mount orientation, length) and move any brackets using a socket set (8mm-24mm).
• If reusing springs, compress the spring evenly using a spring compressor (specialty), then remove the top nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
• Install new strut, boot, and mount components as applicable, then slowly release the compressor.

Step 7: Reinstall and torque fasteners (torque specs required)

• Reinstall in reverse order and tighten with a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to OEM spec for: upper mount nuts, lower strut/shock bolts, and any bracket bolts.
• Because torque values vary by front vs rear and by hardware type, I’ll provide the exact Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) list immediately after you answer the two questions above.

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the RX

• Install the wheel and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower off jack stands using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final-tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range) to the RX’s wheel lug spec.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over bumps and confirm straight-line braking.
• If front struts were removed, schedule a 4-wheel alignment.
• Recheck all visible fasteners and look for any pinched wiring/loose clips.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.