🔧 Cherokee - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Cherokee, the rear uses traditional shock absorbers, but the front uses complete strut assemblies (a strut is a shock with a spring mount). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (rear) / Advanced (front) | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: avoid disassembling the spring without proper equipment; the spring stores dangerous energy.
• ⚠️ Use a torque wrench; loose suspension fasteners are unsafe.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels when lifting the front.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-250 Nm range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 Nm range)
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2"
• Wrench set (metric)
• 21mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 21mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front strut mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
• Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
• If you’re replacing front struts, strongly consider buying complete strut assemblies to avoid using a spring compressor (specialty) (it compresses the coil spring so it can be safely removed).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the end you’re working on.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheels.

Step 2 (Rear): Support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly under the rear lower control arm to support the suspension.
• Light support prevents sudden drop.

Step 3 (Rear): Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• If the bolt is stuck, re-apply penetrating oil and use a breaker bar 1/2".

Step 4 (Rear): Remove the rear shock upper fastener(s)

• Access the upper mount (depending on build, it may be reached from the wheel well or behind interior trim).
• If interior trim is in the way, remove clips with a trim clip tool and a flathead screwdriver.
• Remove the upper fastener(s) using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket (as equipped).

Step 5 (Rear): Remove and install the new rear shock

• Remove the shock from the vehicle.
• Install the new shock in the same orientation.
• Start upper fastener(s) by hand, then start the lower bolt by hand.

Step 6 (Rear): Torque the rear shock fasteners

• Use a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-250 Nm range) to tighten the lower bolt: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 Nm range) to tighten the upper fastener(s): Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 7 (Front): Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut

• The sway bar link is the small rod connecting the sway bar to the strut.
• Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut at the strut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate wrench while loosening the nut.

Step 8 (Front): Unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle

• Mark the bolt positions with a paint marker.
• Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
• Use a pry bar as needed to separate the strut from the knuckle.

Step 9 (Front): Remove the strut top mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Locate the strut tower and remove the top mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
• Support the strut so it doesn’t fall when the last nut comes off.

Step 10 (Front): Install the new complete strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 13mm socket.
• Slide the strut into the knuckle and reinstall the bolts/nuts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench.
• Reconnect the sway bar link using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.

Step 11 (Front): Torque the front strut fasteners

• Tighten the strut top mount nuts using a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 Nm range): Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-250 Nm range): Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the sway bar link nut using a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 Nm range): Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-250 Nm range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks or rattles.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.