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2018 Honda Ridgeline
2018 Honda Ridgeline
Sport - V6 3.5L
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Honda Ridgeline Front Strut Replacement

Honda Ridgeline Front Strut Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Honda Ridgeline

Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Honda Ridgeline

Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Ridgeline - Front Struts & Rear Shocks Replacement

You’ll be replacing the front strut assemblies (front suspension dampers with springs) and the rear shock absorbers (rear dampers). Worn dampers can cause bouncing, longer stopping distances, uneven tire wear, and poor handling.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Ridgeline on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum); never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Front struts contain a compressed spring; use a coil spring compressor (specialty) or install complete quick struts to avoid disassembly.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points when raising/lowering the control arm.
  • ⚠️ If any bolt feels seized, stop and use penetrant; forcing can snap bolts.
  • Battery disconnect is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-250 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (8mm-24mm, 3/8" & 1/2")
  • Wrench set (10mm-24mm)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flat trim tool
  • Rubber mallet
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Allen key set (metric)
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut top mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut pinch bolt/nut hardware kit - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock upper/lower mounting hardware kit - Qty: 2
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels for front work (and in front of the front wheels for rear work).
  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a breaker bar and correct socket before lifting.
  • Spray mounting bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
  • If you are not using complete front strut assemblies: a coil spring compressor is required. A coil spring compressor is a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it can be removed without releasing energy suddenly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the front jack point.
  • Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lug nuts using the correct socket and take off both front wheels.

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and stabilizer link from the front strut

  • Use a socket/wrench to remove the fasteners holding the brake hose/ABS wire brackets to the strut (do not open brake lines).
  • If equipped with a stabilizer (sway) bar link at the strut, remove the link nut using a socket and hold the stud with a Allen key (metric) if it spins.
  • Tip: Take a photo before removing brackets.

Step 3: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

  • Support the lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
  • Use a breaker bar (1/2") and correct socket to remove the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt/nut.
  • Use a pry bar (18") to gently open the knuckle pinch area just enough to release the strut.
  • Tap lightly with a rubber mallet if needed while guiding the strut out of the knuckle.

Step 4: Remove the front strut assembly

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a socket to remove the upper strut mount nuts (usually 3 nuts per side).
  • Hold the strut so it doesn’t drop, then remove it from the wheel well.

Step 5: Transfer spring to the new strut (skip if using complete strut assemblies)

  • Install the coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly with a socket/wrench until the spring is loose in the mount.
  • Mark the spring and mount orientation using a paint marker.
  • Remove the center top nut using a socket while holding the strut shaft with an Allen key (metric) if required.
  • Move the mount, bearing/isolator, and spring to the new strut in the same orientation.
  • Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.

Step 6: Install the front strut

  • Position the strut in the tower and start the upper nuts by hand using a socket (do not fully tighten yet).
  • Guide the strut into the steering knuckle. Use the floor jack under the control arm to align height.
  • Install the pinch bolt/nut using the correct socket/wrench and tighten.
  • Torque to 86 Nm (63 ft-lbs) for the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs) for the upper strut mount nuts.
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a socket/wrench and tighten securely.
  • Reinstall stabilizer link nut (if removed) using a socket and hold with an Allen key (metric) if needed.
  • Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs) for the stabilizer link nut.

Step 7: Reinstall front wheels

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the front to the ground using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2" drive).
  • Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

Step 8: Lift and remove the rear wheels

  • Move wheel chocks to the front wheels.
  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove both rear wheels using the correct socket.

Step 9: Remove the rear shocks

  • Support the rear lower control arm (or rear suspension arm near the shock) with the floor jack.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a breaker bar (1/2") and correct socket/wrench.
  • Remove the upper shock mounting fastener(s) using a socket/wrench.
  • Remove the shock from the vehicle.

Step 10: Install the rear shocks

  • Install the new shock into position and start the upper fastener(s) by hand using a socket.
  • Align the lower mount using the floor jack, then install the lower bolt using the correct socket/wrench.
  • Tighten upper and lower mounting fasteners using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) for the rear shock upper mounting fastener(s).
  • Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs) for the rear shock lower bolt.

Step 11: Reinstall rear wheels

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the rear to the ground using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2" drive).
  • Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Ridgeline and turn the steering lock-to-lock to confirm no hose/ABS wire is stretched or rubbing.
  • Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement (required to prevent tire wear).
  • Re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 50-100 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.


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