How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Cadillac Escalade
Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools list, Magnetic Ride Control tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2018 Cadillac Escalade
Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools list, Magnetic Ride Control tips, and torque specs


🔧 Escalade - Shock/Strut Replacement
On your Escalade, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, but the front is typically a strut assembly (a shock + spring together). The steps are different, and the wrong method can be unsafe if a spring is involved.
Before I tailor this perfectly, answer these 2 quick questions: (1) Are you replacing front, rear, or all four? (2) Do your shocks/struts have an electrical plug on them (Magnetic Ride Control)?
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.0-2.0 hours (pair) / Front: 2.5-4.5 hours (pair)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never get under the Escalade supported only by a jack; use jack stands on the frame.
- ⚠️ Front struts contain a spring under high tension. If you are not replacing a complete strut assembly, a coil spring compressor is required and can be dangerous if misused.
- ⚠️ If equipped with Magnetic Ride Control, do not pull on wiring; release connectors carefully to avoid damage.
- ⚠️ Support the suspension with a jack when removing lower shock/strut bolts to prevent sudden drop.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required, but if you’ll unplug suspension connectors, turning ignition OFF and keeping the key away is smart.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 22mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 1/2" (30-250 ft-lbs)
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs)
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 24mm
- Wrench set: 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
- Pry bar (12"-18")
- Trim tool set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Rear shock upper/lower mounting nuts/bolts - Qty: 4
- Magnetic Ride Control connector seals/clips - Qty: 1 kit
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
- Loosen lug nuts with a 22mm socket before lifting.
- Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
- If your shocks/struts have an electrical connector: turn ignition OFF, keep the key away, and gently release connectors using a trim tool. Don’t twist the connector by force.
- If doing front struts and you are NOT installing complete strut assemblies: you must use a coil spring compressor (it clamps the spring so it can’t expand).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack to lift at the proper jacking point, then support with jack stands.
- Remove the wheel using a 22mm socket.
Step 2 (Rear): Support the rear suspension
- Place the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm or axle area to support it.
- This keeps the shock bolt from binding when you remove it.
Step 3 (Rear): Disconnect Magnetic Ride Control (if equipped)
- If there’s a plug on the shock, release the lock with a trim tool and unplug it.
- Unclip the harness from the shock body using needle-nose pliers.
Step 4 (Rear): Remove the lower shock bolt
- Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar (and an 18mm wrench if the nut spins) to remove the lower shock fastener.
- Adjust the support jack height so the bolt slides out smoothly.
Step 5 (Rear): Remove the upper shock fastener(s)
- Use a 15mm socket (common) to remove the upper mounting fastener(s).
- Remove the rear shock from the vehicle.
Step 6 (Rear): Install the new rear shock
- Position the new shock and start the upper fastener(s) by hand using a 15mm socket.
- Line up the lower mount and insert the lower bolt using an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs) for upper fastener(s) and Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs) for the lower bolt.
- If equipped, reconnect the electrical plug and re-clip the harness.
Step 7 (Front): Prep the strut area
- Turn the steering so you have better access to the strut and knuckle area.
- Unclip ABS/brake hose brackets from the strut using a trim tool and remove small bracket bolts with a 10mm socket if present.
- If equipped, unplug the strut electrical connector using a trim tool.
Step 8 (Front): Separate strut from steering knuckle
- Support the lower control arm lightly with a floor jack.
- Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar (hold the other side with an 18mm wrench if needed).
- Mark bolt positions with a paint marker.
Step 9 (Front): Remove the strut top nuts
- Open the hood.
- Remove the strut mount nuts using a 15mm socket.
- Support the strut with one hand while removing the last nut, then pull the strut out.
Step 10 (Front): Install the new strut
- Install the new complete strut into the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 15mm socket.
- Align the strut to the knuckle and install the lower bolts using an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for top mount nuts.
- Torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts.
- Reconnect brackets using a 10mm socket and reconnect electrical plug if equipped.
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the Escalade
- Install the wheel and snug lug nuts using a 22mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle and final-torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Test drive slowly over a bumpy road and listen for clunks (loose fastener or bracket).
- Recheck for any loose harness clips and verify ABS/brake hose routing is not stretched.
- If you replaced front struts: get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
- If equipped with Magnetic Ride Control and you have a warning message, the system may need a scan-tool check for stored codes.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor, varies a lot with Magnetic Ride Control)
DIY Cost: $300-$1,400 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.



















