🔧 Enclave - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Enclave, the “shock absorbers” can mean the rear shocks (separate from the spring) and/or the front struts (a strut is a shock absorber that also supports the spring and steering). The steps and parts are different front vs rear, so I’m giving you both procedures.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Enclave on jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring is under heavy tension. Use a spring compressor correctly, or replace complete “quick strut” assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising the suspension arms to avoid pinch points.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, a 4-wheel alignment is required to prevent tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Ratchet (1/2" drive)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies (quick struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Replace as a set - Qty: 1
• Rear shock mounting hardware - Replace as a set - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if lifting the front (or chock the front wheels if lifting the rear).
• Loosen lug nuts with a 22mm socket before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on lower strut/shock bolts and let it soak while you set up.
• Quick struts reduce spring-compressor risk.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel(s)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper lift point, then set the Enclave on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 22mm socket.
• When reinstalling later: Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 2A: Rear shock replacement (one side at a time)

• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the lower rear shock bolt using the correct socket set (8mm-24mm, 1/2" drive) and breaker bar (1/2" drive).
• Remove the upper rear shock mount fasteners using the correct socket set (8mm-24mm, 3/8" drive).
• Pull the shock out. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.

Step 3A: Install the new rear shock

• Install the shock into the upper mount by hand first, then start the lower bolt. Use the socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Raise/lower the control arm slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) until the lower bolt slides in without forcing it.
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench:
  • Upper rear shock fasteners: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
  • Lower rear shock bolt: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
• Repeat Steps 2A–3A on the other rear side.

Step 2B: Front strut replacement (one side at a time)

• Open the hood. Locate the strut tower. Do not remove the center nut yet (it retains the spring/strut assembly).
• If equipped, unclip the brake hose/ABS wiring from the strut using a trim clip tool and/or needle-nose pliers.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position with a paint marker to help keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar (1/2" drive) and the correct socket set (8mm-24mm, 1/2" drive).
• If the knuckle clamps the strut tightly, insert a strut spreader tool (specialty) to open the clamp slightly.
• From the top, remove the strut mount nuts using the correct socket set (8mm-24mm, 3/8" drive), then lower the strut out.

Step 3B: Transfer parts or install a complete quick strut

• If installing quick struts, skip to Step 4B.
• If reusing your spring/mount: compress the spring with a spring compressor (specialty) until it’s loose in the seats. A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so it can be removed safely.
• Remove the top nut using the correct socket set (8mm-24mm) and a wrench set (8mm-24mm) to counter-hold if needed.
• Move the mount/bearing/boot to the new strut in the same order and orientation.
• Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.

Step 4B: Install the front strut

• Position the strut into the tower and start the top mount nuts by hand using the socket set (8mm-24mm).
• Guide the strut into the knuckle. Use the strut spreader tool (specialty) as needed.
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts and snug them using the breaker bar (1/2" drive) and socket set (8mm-24mm, 1/2" drive).
• Reconnect brake hose/ABS wire retainers using the trim clip tool.
• Final torque with a torque wrench:
  • Strut mount nuts (top): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)
• Repeat Steps 2B–4B on the other front side.

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✅ After Repair

• Double-check that brake hoses and ABS wiring are clipped back into place and not twisted.
• Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front struts.
• Re-torque lug nuts with a torque wrench after 50-100 miles: 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$2,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$1,100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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