🔧 Camry - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Camry, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock with a spring and mount built around it). Replacing worn units restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or clunking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear shocks: 1-2 hours, front struts: 2-4 hours)

Assumption: Steps cover both rear shocks and front struts (most common “shock” request on this Camry).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts, the coil spring stores serious energy—only use a spring compressor correctly, or replace complete “quick-strut” assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressed.
• ⚠️ Chock wheels and work on level ground.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2.5-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench (21mm)
• Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
• Wrench set (14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip remover
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not using complete assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front coil spring isolators - If damaged - Qty: 2
• Front sway bar end links - Optional if worn - Qty: 2
• New self-locking nuts/bolts - If supplied/required by parts kit - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
• Use a lug wrench (21mm) to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Lift one end of the car with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper jack points.
• Spray mounting bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• Tip: Replace left/right as a pair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the wheel

• Use a lug wrench (21mm) to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel.

Step 2 (Rear): Support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack lightly under the rear lower control arm near the shock area to support it.
• This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when the shock bolt comes out.

Step 3 (Rear): Remove the rear shock lower bolt

• Use a breaker bar (1/2") with a 17mm or 19mm socket (varies by hardware) to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• If the bolt is tight, tap it out with a rubber mallet.

Step 4 (Rear): Access and remove the rear shock upper nuts

• Open the trunk and pull back trunk trim near the shock tower using a trim clip remover.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the upper shock mount nuts.
• Remove the shock downward and out of the wheel well.
• Torque (install): Upper mount nuts Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) (typical)

Step 5 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Line up the lower mount, raise/lower the control arm slightly with the floor jack until the bolt slides through.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using a 17mm or 19mm socket and wrench.
• Torque (install): Lower shock bolt Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs) (typical)

Step 6 (Front): Remove brackets and sway bar link (if attached to strut)

• Remove brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• If the sway bar end link attaches to the strut, remove the link nut using a 17mm socket and wrench.
• A sway bar end link is the short rod connecting the sway bar to the strut.

Step 7 (Front): Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Mark the bolt/knuckle position with a paint marker for a reference line.
• Use a breaker bar (1/2") with a 19mm or 21mm socket to remove the two large bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar only as needed to separate the knuckle from the strut.
• Torque (install): Strut-to-knuckle bolts Torque to 212 Nm (156 ft-lbs) (typical)

Step 8 (Front): Remove the strut top nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the top mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then lower it out.
• Torque (install): Strut top nuts Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) (typical)

Step 9 (Front option A): Install complete strut assembly (recommended)

• Slide the new complete strut into the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the bottom with the knuckle and install the two large bolts using a 19mm or 21mm socket and wrench.
• Reinstall sway bar link and brackets using the correct 10mm/12mm/17mm tools.

Step 10 (Front option B): Swap spring onto new strut (only if not using complete assembly)

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) onto the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the top nut using the appropriate socket and wrench setup for your strut hardware.
• Transfer spring and mounts to the new strut in the same orientation, then slowly release the compressor evenly.
• Tip: Compress both sides evenly, small turns.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque: Wheel lug nuts Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat the same procedure for the opposite side so damping is matched left-to-right.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rattles over bumps.
• Re-check all visible fasteners for tightness after a short test drive.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment soon (within a day or two) to prevent tire wear.
• If the steering wheel is off-center after the repair, do not ignore it—alignment is needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only, depending on brand and whether you choose complete strut assemblies)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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