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2016 Ram ProMaster 1500
2016 Ram ProMaster 1500
Base - V6 3.6L
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Rear Shocks Ram Promaster 2014-2021 Install Guide (Easy DIY)

Rear Shocks Ram Promaster 2014-2021 Install Guide (Easy DIY)

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Ram ProMaster 1500

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 ProMaster 1500 - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your ProMaster 1500, the rear uses traditional shock absorbers, but the front uses strut assemblies (a shock + spring together). Replacing worn units restores control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear and braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate (Rear) / Advanced (Front) | Estimated Time: Rear: 1-2 hours | Front: 3-6 hours

Assumption: OE-style hardware; verify torque specs with service info.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the van on jack stands, never the jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring under high tension. If you are not installing complete “quick-strut” assemblies, you must use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring so it can’t release violently).
  • ⚠️ Keep the steering knuckle supported so you don’t over-stretch the CV axle or brake hose.
  • ⚠️ After front strut work, get a professional alignment as soon as possible.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20-250 ft-lbs range)
  • Lug nut socket 19mm
  • Socket set metric 10mm-24mm (1/2" drive)
  • Wrench set metric 10mm-24mm
  • Hex key socket set metric (for sway link stud)
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Hammer 24 oz
  • Punch set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Strut spreader tool (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (quick-strut recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front upper strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
  • Rear shock mounting bolts/nuts - Qty: 4

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work) using wheel chocks.
  • Break lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Spray shock/strut bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

  • Use a floor jack to lift at the approved lift point, then place jack stands under the body support points.
  • Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2 (Rear): Remove the rear shock

  • Support the rear suspension beam slightly with the floor jack.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a socket and wrench set.
  • Remove the upper shock bolt using a socket and wrench set.
  • Pull the shock out by hand; use a pry bar if needed.

Step 3 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

  • Position the new shock and start bolts by hand.
  • Tighten upper and lower bolts with a socket, then finish with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) for rear shock bolts.
  • Tip: Tighten with suspension at normal height.

Step 4 (Front): Disconnect brackets and sway bar link

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and trim clip tool as needed.
  • Remove the sway bar end link from the strut using a socket and wrench set.
  • If the end link stud spins, hold it with a hex key socket while turning the nut.

Step 5 (Front): Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
  • Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack.
  • Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar and socket set.
  • If the knuckle clamps onto the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to gently open the clamp.
  • Tap bolts out using a hammer and punch.

Step 6 (Front): Remove the strut assembly

  • From the strut tower area, remove the upper mount nuts using a socket set.
  • Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut, then lower the strut out.

Step 7 (Front): Swap parts (quick-strut vs reuse spring)

  • If installing a quick-strut, skip spring work and move to the next step.
  • If reusing the coil spring, install a coil spring compressor (specialty) and compress evenly until the top mount is loose.
  • Remove the center top nut using a socket set while holding the shaft as required (tooling varies by strut).
  • Transfer spring and mount, then tighten the center nut using a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for the strut shaft top nut.

Step 8 (Front): Reinstall the strut

  • Set the strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand.
  • Slide the strut into the knuckle; use the strut spreader tool (specialty) if needed.
  • Install new strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts using a socket set.
  • Torque to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts.
  • Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) for upper strut mount nuts.

Step 9 (Front): Reconnect sway bar link and brackets

  • Reinstall the sway bar link using a socket and wrench set.
  • Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) for the sway bar end link nut.
  • Reattach brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the van

  • Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
  • Lower the van off jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

✅ After Repair

  • Test drive slowly and listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Re-check for any loose brackets or rubbing brake hoses.
  • Get a front wheel alignment after front strut replacement.
  • After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.


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