How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
Step-by-step DIY suspension replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
Step-by-step DIY suspension replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
🔧 Outlander Sport - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Outlander Sport, the front “shocks” are part of the front strut assemblies, and the rear typically uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and tire cupping.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; front = struts, rear = separate shocks.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ If reusing front springs, a coil spring compressor is required; springs store dangerous energy.
- ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it to avoid damage.
- ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising suspension arms.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Ratchet (1/2")
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm
- Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Allen key set: 6mm
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pry bar (18")
- Rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (front struts) or front wheels (rear shocks).
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on strut/shock bolts and sway bar link nuts; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
- Tip: Do one side at a time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack to lift at the factory jack point and set the vehicle on jack stands.
- Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheel.
Step 2: Remove brackets from the front strut (front struts)
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut body.
- Move the hose/wire aside so nothing gets stretched.
Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar end link (front struts)
- Use a 17mm wrench to loosen the end link nut at the strut.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm Allen key while turning the nut.
Step 4: Mark camber position (front struts)
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions.
- This helps keep alignment close until you get a professional alignment.
Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts (front struts)
- Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack under the lower control arm area (light pressure only).
- Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 21mm socket with a breaker bar.
- Tap bolts out with a rubber mallet if needed.
- Torque (install): 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs)
Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts (front struts)
- Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
- Remove the upper mount nuts with a 14mm socket.
- Hold the strut so it doesn’t drop, then remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
- Torque (install): 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Step 7: If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies (front struts)
- Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly until the top mount is loose.
- A coil spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter.
- Remove the center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and a 6mm Allen key as needed.
- Swap the strut cartridge, then reassemble in the same order and slowly release the compressor.
- Tip: Point the top mount the same direction.
Step 8: Install the front strut (front struts)
- Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the upper nuts with a 14mm socket.
- Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts using 19mm/21mm tools.
- Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key if needed.
- Torque sway bar end link nut: 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets with a 10mm/12mm socket.
Step 9: Rear shock removal
- Remove the rear wheel using a 21mm socket.
- Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Remove the upper shock fastener(s):
-
- If accessible in the wheel well, remove with a 14mm socket.
- If behind cargo-side trim, pop clips with a trim clip removal tool and remove with a 14mm socket.
- Remove the rear shock.
Step 10: Rear shock installation
- Install the new shock starting at the upper mount, hand-tighten with a 14mm socket.
- Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Torque upper shock fastener: 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
- Torque lower shock bolt: 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
- Tip: Raise the arm to align bolt holes.
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
- Torque lug nuts: 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
✅ After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and recheck your work.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
- Get a professional alignment after front struts to prevent uneven tire wear.
- Watch for brake hose/ABS wire rubbing and correct routing if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















