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2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
ES - Inline 4 2.0L
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HOW TO CHANGE SHOCK ABSORBER AT HOME | DIY MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2017

HOW TO CHANGE SHOCK ABSORBER AT HOME | DIY MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2017

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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3 Ton
Jack Stands
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport

Step-by-step DIY suspension replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport

Step-by-step DIY suspension replacement with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outlander Sport - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Outlander Sport, the front “shocks” are part of the front strut assemblies, and the rear typically uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock suspension; front = struts, rear = separate shocks.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ If reusing front springs, a coil spring compressor is required; springs store dangerous energy.
  • ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose/ABS wire; support it to avoid damage.
  • ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear when lowering/raising suspension arms.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
  • Ratchet (3/8")
  • Ratchet (1/2")
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm
  • Wrench set: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Allen key set: 6mm
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Rubber mallet
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Coil spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (front struts) or front wheels (rear shocks).
  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on strut/shock bolts and sway bar link nuts; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
  • Tip: Do one side at a time.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

  • Use a floor jack to lift at the factory jack point and set the vehicle on jack stands.
  • Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove brackets from the front strut (front struts)

  • Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut body.
  • Move the hose/wire aside so nothing gets stretched.

Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar end link (front struts)

  • Use a 17mm wrench to loosen the end link nut at the strut.
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm Allen key while turning the nut.

Step 4: Mark camber position (front struts)

  • Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions.
  • This helps keep alignment close until you get a professional alignment.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts (front struts)

  • Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack under the lower control arm area (light pressure only).
  • Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 21mm socket with a breaker bar.
  • Tap bolts out with a rubber mallet if needed.
  • Torque (install): 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts (front struts)

  • Open the hood and locate the strut tower.
  • Remove the upper mount nuts with a 14mm socket.
  • Hold the strut so it doesn’t drop, then remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
  • Torque (install): 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)

Step 7: If you are NOT using complete strut assemblies (front struts)

  • Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and compress evenly until the top mount is loose.
  • A coil spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter.
  • Remove the center nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and a 6mm Allen key as needed.
  • Swap the strut cartridge, then reassemble in the same order and slowly release the compressor.
  • Tip: Point the top mount the same direction.

Step 8: Install the front strut (front struts)

  • Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the upper nuts with a 14mm socket.
  • Slide the knuckle onto the strut and install the two lower bolts using 19mm/21mm tools.
  • Reattach the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key if needed.
  • Torque sway bar end link nut: 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets with a 10mm/12mm socket.

Step 9: Rear shock removal

  • Remove the rear wheel using a 21mm socket.
  • Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Remove the upper shock fastener(s):
    • If accessible in the wheel well, remove with a 14mm socket.
    • If behind cargo-side trim, pop clips with a trim clip removal tool and remove with a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the rear shock.

Step 10: Rear shock installation

  • Install the new shock starting at the upper mount, hand-tighten with a 14mm socket.
  • Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque upper shock fastener: 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
  • Torque lower shock bolt: 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs)
  • Tip: Raise the arm to align bolt holes.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
  • Torque lug nuts: 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and recheck your work.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
  • Get a professional alignment after front struts to prevent uneven tire wear.
  • Watch for brake hose/ABS wire rubbing and correct routing if needed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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