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2016 Lexus IS200t
2016 Lexus IS200t
Base - Inline 4 2.0L
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2016-2017 Lexus is200t, is250, is350 rear shock absorber remove and installation

2016-2017 Lexus is200t, is250, is350 rear shock absorber remove and installation

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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Nitrile
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Lexus IS200t

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Lexus IS200t

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 IS - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your IS, the front shocks are built into the front strut assemblies, and the rear uses a separate shock and spring. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: OEM-style suspension; verify torque specs with Lexus service data.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ If you disassemble a front strut, a spring compressor is required; the spring is under high force and can cause serious injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands/face out of the spring’s path while compressing.
  • ⚠️ Use wheel chocks and work on level ground.
  • ⚠️ No battery disconnect is typically required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20-250 Nm range)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 Nm range)
  • Socket set 3/8" drive (10mm-19mm)
  • Socket set 1/2" drive (14mm-22mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
  • Allen key set (5mm-8mm)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock upper mounts - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • New self-locking suspension nuts/bolts - As needed - Qty: 1 set
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (front work) or front wheels (rear work).
  • Use a breaker bar 1/2" with the correct socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
  • Spray visible suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
  • If you are not installing complete front strut assemblies, prepare the spring compressor (specialty) (a tool that safely squeezes the coil spring shorter so it can be removed).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid support points and lower onto stands.
  • Remove the front wheels using a 21mm socket (common lug size) and breaker bar 1/2".
  • When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Disconnect brackets and links from the front strut

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets attached to the strut body.
  • If the sway bar end link attaches to the strut, use a 17mm wrench on the nut and hold the stud with an Allen key if it spins.
  • Tip: Mark bracket positions with a paint marker.

Step 3: Remove the front strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the steering knuckle lightly with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop and stress the axle.
  • Use a 19mm-22mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to remove the two large bolts/nuts clamping the strut to the knuckle.
  • Tap bolts out carefully if needed using a pry bar (18") for alignment and a steady hand.
  • Typical reassembly spec: Torque to 170-200 Nm (125-148 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the front strut top nuts and remove the strut

  • Open the hood.
  • Use a 14mm socket to remove the strut mount nuts at the strut tower (usually 3 nuts).
  • Hold the strut as you remove the last nut, then guide the strut out of the wheel well.
  • Typical reassembly spec: Torque to 35-50 Nm (26-37 ft-lbs).

Step 5: If reusing the spring, transfer parts to the new front strut

  • Install a spring compressor (specialty) onto the coil spring (opposite sides) and tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
  • Remove the center shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with an Allen key if required.
  • Move the mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop onto the new strut in the same order.
  • Typical center nut spec: Torque to 55-75 Nm (41-55 ft-lbs).
  • Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.

Step 6: Reinstall the front strut assembly

  • Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-start the top nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the strut to the knuckle and install the lower bolts using a 19mm-22mm socket.
  • Reconnect sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and Allen key if needed.
  • Reinstall hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2" and torque wrench 3/8" to the specs listed above.

Step 7: Lift and secure the rear of the car

  • Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear and support with jack stands.
  • Remove rear wheels using a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Access the rear shock upper mount

  • In the trunk, remove trim panels as needed using a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers.
  • Locate the rear shock upper nuts.
  • Loosen (do not fully remove yet) the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Typical reassembly spec: Torque to 25-40 Nm (18-30 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the rear shock lower bolt and remove the shock

  • Support the rear lower control arm slightly with the floor jack.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm-19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • Now remove the upper nuts fully with a 14mm socket, then pull the shock out.
  • Typical reassembly spec for lower bolt: Torque to 70-100 Nm (52-74 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install the new rear shock

  • Transfer or install new dust boot/bump stop and upper mount onto the new shock.
  • Guide the shock into place and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm-19mm socket.
  • Torque upper and lower fasteners using a torque wrench to the specs listed above.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Take a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Re-check that brake hose/ABS wires are clipped correctly and not stretched at full steering lock.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment soon after replacing front struts to prevent tire wear.
  • After 50-100 km, re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹45,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹10,000-₹30,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹8,000-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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