🔧 ES350 - Shock Absorber Replacement

Your ES350 uses front strut assemblies (shock + spring together) and rear shock absorbers (separate from the spring). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and helps braking and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing complete front strut assemblies to avoid spring-compressor risk.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a car supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid level ground.
• ⚠️ Front coil springs store extreme energy. If you’re not using complete strut assemblies, a spring compressor can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust and debris fall when loosening suspension bolts.
• ⚠️ Do not pull or stretch the brake hose or ABS wire (the wheel-speed sensor wire) while the strut is out.
• ⚠️ If you loosen front strut-to-knuckle bolts, you should get a 4-wheel alignment afterward.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2", 20-200 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench (3/8", 10-80 ft-lbs)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set (8mm-22mm, 3/8" drive)
• Socket set (14mm-24mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (10mm-22mm)
• Allen key set (metric)
• Pry bar (24")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Spring compressor (external, two-piece) (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorber - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop and dust boot kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mount kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Replacement self-locking suspension nuts/bolts kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of any camber/strut bolts if your ES350 has cam bolts (helps get you close before alignment).
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear shock bolts 10–15 minutes before removal.
• If you will compress springs: set up the spring compressor on a workbench and inspect it for damage first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the front (or rear) using a floor jack at the center jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the pinch welds or specified support points.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Front struts — detach lines and links from the strut

• Locate the ABS wire bracket and brake hose bracket on the strut body.
• Remove the bracket bolts using a 10mm socket (or 12mm socket if equipped).
• If your ES350 has a sway bar end link attached to the strut, remove the end-link nut using a 17mm wrench while holding the stud with an Allen key.
• Tip: Take a photo before unbolting brackets.

Step 3: Front struts — remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle lightly with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop and pull the axle or brake hose.
• Remove the two large lower bolts/nuts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• If the bolts are tight in the knuckle, tap them out with a rubber mallet and use a pry bar to separate the strut from the knuckle.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts during reassembly (typical ES350 spec range).

Step 4: Front struts — remove the upper mount nuts and take the strut out

• Open the hood and find the three strut mount nuts at the top of each strut tower.
• Remove the three nuts using a 14mm socket, but do not remove the center nut yet.
• Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then guide the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the strut mount nuts during reassembly (typical ES350 spec range).

Step 5: Front struts — swap parts (two safe paths)

• Path A (recommended): Complete strut assembly
• Install the new complete strut assembly as-is (no spring compressor needed).
• Path B: Reuse spring (requires spring compressor)
• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose at the top mount.
• Remove the center top nut using a 19mm socket while holding the strut shaft with an Allen key (varies by strut design).
• Transfer spring, mount/bearing, bump stop, and boot to the new strut, then tighten the center nut.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) for the strut rod top nut (typical ES350 spec range).
• Tip: Compress springs only enough to free the mount.

Step 6: Front struts — reinstall and torque

• Position the strut into the strut tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the steering knuckle onto the strut lower mount and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• Reconnect sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and Allen key if equipped.
• Reinstall ABS/brake hose brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Final-torque the fasteners:
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
  • Upper mount nuts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs)
  • Sway bar end link nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) (typical ES350 spec range)

Step 7: Rear shocks — access the upper mounts

• Open the trunk and remove the rear floor cover.
• Remove the side trunk trim panels near the shock towers using a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers for clips.
• Locate the rear shock upper mount nuts (usually two or three per side).

Step 8: Rear shocks — remove lower bolt, then upper nuts

• Support the rear lower control arm with a floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Remove the upper mount nuts in the trunk using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the shock assembly from the wheel well area.
• Rear lower shock bolt: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs) during reassembly (typical ES350 spec range).
• Rear upper mount nuts: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) during reassembly (typical ES350 spec range).

Step 9: Rear shocks — transfer mounts (if needed) and install

• If the new rear shocks do not include mounts, transfer the upper mount/bushings to the new shock using a wrench set and socket set.
• Install the shock top first: hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower shock eye with the control arm mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Tighten upper nuts and lower bolt to spec:
  • Rear upper mount nuts: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)
  • Rear lower shock bolt: Torque to 105 Nm (77 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front strut replacement).
• Look for any twisted brake hose/ABS wire routing and correct if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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