How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Kia Cadenza
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Kia Cadenza
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes


🔧 Cadenza - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Cadenza, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front suspension uses strut assemblies (a “strut” is a shock with a coil spring mounted on it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; rear shocks + front struts (common Cadenza layout).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 If doing front struts: coil springs store huge energy. Use a proper spring compressor (a tool that compresses the spring safely) or replace the complete strut assembly to avoid compressing the spring.
- 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points at the knuckle and control arms.
- 🛑 After suspension work, an alignment is required (especially front struts).
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this mechanical repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 21mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
- Socket set 10mm-22mm
- Wrench set 10mm-22mm
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Extensions 3/8" and 1/2"
- Pry bar 18"
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Hammer 16 oz
- Punch set
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
- Front bump stops and dust boots - If not included with struts - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mount hardware - If corroded/damaged - Qty: 1 kit
- Rear lower shock bolts/nuts - If single-use or corroded - Qty: 1 kit
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if lifting the front (and chock the front wheels if lifting the rear).
- 🔧 Spray penetrating oil on the shock/strut mounting bolts 10-15 minutes before removal.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of any camber/knuckle bolts if present (helps keep alignment closer until the shop aligns it).
- 📦 If you’re new to springs: consider complete front strut assemblies (pre-built) to avoid spring compressor use.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the car
- Use wheel chocks to block the wheels that stay on the ground.
- Crack the lug nuts loose with a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar (about 1/4 turn).
- Lift with a floor jack at the correct jack point and set the car down on jack stands.
- Remove the wheels with a 21mm lug nut socket.
Step 2: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)
- Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
- Remove the rear lower shock bolt using the correct socket set 14mm-19mm and breaker bar.
- Access the rear upper shock mount fasteners (typically inside trunk/side trim area) using a trim clip removal tool and socket set 10mm-14mm.
- Remove the upper fasteners with a ratchet 3/8" and extension, then pull the shock out.
- Torque to OEM specification (Nm/ft-lbs per Kia service manual) using a torque wrench.
Step 3: Rear shock installation
- Install the new rear shock in the same orientation as the original.
- Start the upper fasteners by hand using a socket set 10mm-14mm (don’t fully tighten yet).
- Line up the lower mount by raising/lowering the control arm with the floor jack, then install the lower bolt with a socket set 14mm-19mm.
- Tighten upper and lower hardware with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification (Nm/ft-lbs per Kia service manual).
- Tighten with suspension near ride height.
Step 4: Front strut removal (recommended: replace strut assembly)
- Open the hood and locate the strut top mount nuts.
- Do not remove the center nut on the strut top if the spring is still loaded.
- Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a socket set 10mm-12mm and needle-nose pliers for clips.
- Mark the knuckle-to-strut bolt positions (if applicable) using a paint marker.
- Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a socket set 17mm-22mm and breaker bar. Use a punch set and hammer if needed to drive bolts out.
- Support the knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle or brake hose (use the floor jack or a pry bar 18" carefully).
- Remove the strut top mount nuts with a socket set 12mm-14mm and ratchet 3/8", then remove the strut assembly.
- Torque to OEM specification (Nm/ft-lbs per Kia service manual) during reassembly using a torque wrench.
Step 5: Front strut installation
- Position the new strut assembly into the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a socket set 12mm-14mm.
- Align the strut-to-knuckle holes and install the lower bolts using a socket set 17mm-22mm and breaker bar.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets with a socket set 10mm-12mm.
- Tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench: Torque to OEM specification (Nm/ft-lbs per Kia service manual).
- Keep ABS wire untwisted and slacky.
Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and snug lug nuts with a 21mm lug nut socket.
- Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs: Torque to OEM specification (Nm/ft-lbs per Kia service manual).
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over small bumps and re-check your work if you hear anything.
- 🧭 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (required after front struts).
- 🔍 Recheck all visible fasteners after 25-50 miles and inspect for any loose brackets or rubbing wires.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$1,200 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$1,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















