🔧 Veloster - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Veloster, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, but the front uses a strut assembly (a shock + coil spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing front struts and rear shocks as a set.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Front struts contain a compressed coil spring; use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring). Incorrect use can cause serious injury.
• ⚠️ If any bolt fights you, stop and use penetrating oil—don’t round the bolt heads.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, you need a 4-wheel alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this mechanical repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm–22mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (10mm–22mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Extension set (3/8" drive)
• Pry bar (12"–18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front bump stop & dust boot kit - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper bushings/hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar end link nut, and rear shock bolts. Let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions if your knuckle uses camber bolts. This helps keep alignment close.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down on jack stands.
• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheels.

Step 2: Front (strut) — disconnect brackets and sway bar end link

• On the front strut body, remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket (some cars may use 12mm).
• Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using wrenches (commonly 17mm/19mm). If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate wrench while turning the nut.

Step 3: Front (strut) — remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle (the part the wheel hub bolts to) with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop and strain the axle.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar with 19mm–22mm sockets (size varies by hardware).
• If stuck, tap the bolts out using a hammer and punch.

Step 4: Front (strut) — remove the strut from the top mount

• Open the hood.
• Remove the strut top mount nuts using a 14mm socket (commonly 3 nuts).
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut, then pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well.

Step 5: Front (strut) — swap spring and mount (if not using complete quick-struts)

• If you bought complete quick-strut assemblies, skip to Step 6.
• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) onto the spring and tighten both sides evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty).
• Transfer the spring, dust boot, bump stop, and mount to the new strut (replace worn items from your kits).
• Reinstall the shaft nut and tighten securely, then slowly release the spring compressor evenly.

Step 6: Front (strut) — reinstall strut assembly

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the knuckle into the strut bracket and install the two large bolts/nuts using 19mm–22mm sockets.
• Torque to 160–200 Nm (118–148 ft-lbs) for strut-to-knuckle bolts (common range on this platform).
• Torque to 35–55 Nm (26–41 ft-lbs) for strut top mount nuts (common range).
• Reconnect sway bar end link and torque to 45–65 Nm (33–48 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket and snug firmly (do not over-tighten small bolts).
• Tip: Align your paint marks before final torque.

Step 7: Rear (shock) — access the upper shock mount

• Open the hatch and fold down the rear seats.
• Remove interior trim panels near the rear shock towers using a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers (for stubborn clips).
• Locate the upper shock mount nuts (usually 2 nuts per side).

Step 8: Rear (shock) — remove the lower shock bolt

• Under the car, support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack.
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using 17mm–19mm sockets and a breaker bar.

Step 9: Rear (shock) — remove the upper nuts and remove the shock

• Inside the car, remove the upper shock nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Pull the shock out from below.

Step 10: Rear (shock) — install the new shock

• Install the new shock into position and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt/nut using 17mm–19mm sockets.
• Torque to 75–110 Nm (55–81 ft-lbs) for the lower shock bolt (common range).
• Torque to 25–40 Nm (18–30 ft-lbs) for the upper mount nuts (common range).
• Reinstall the interior trim using a trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Torque to 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs) for lug nuts in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front struts).
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.
• If the car sits unevenly or bounces, recheck that all fasteners are torqued and mounts are seated correctly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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