🔧 Sonata - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Sonata, the “shocks” are split into two jobs: the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses complete strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the suspension and steering).

For a first-time DIYer, the safest approach is to replace complete front strut assemblies (often called “quick-struts”) so you don’t have to transfer the spring.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear 1-2, front 2-4)

Assumption: torque values shown are common OEM ranges; verify if possible.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 If swapping springs (not recommended), a coil spring stores dangerous energy—use a proper spring compressor and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
• 🛑 Keep the brake hose and ABS wire from stretching; do not let the knuckle hang by the hose.
• 🛑 After front strut work, get a professional alignment (steering/suspension angles can shift).
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–22mm, 1/2" drive)
• Wrench set (8mm–22mm)
• Deep socket set (12mm–19mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Extension set (3" and 6")
• Penetrating oil
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Paint marker
• Pry bar (18")
• Rubber mallet
• Needle-nose pliers
• Spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Rear shock mounting hardware - Qty: 1 kit
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray suspension fasteners (especially lower bolts) with penetrating oil 10–15 minutes before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the front or rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Rear shock removal (do this side-by-side)

• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the trunk and pull back the trunk side trim using a trim clip tool to access the upper shock mount nuts.
• Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 14mm deep socket and ratchet.
• Pull the shock out. If it’s stuck, tap gently with a rubber mallet.

Step 3: Rear shock install

• Position the new shock and hand-start the upper nuts using a 14mm deep socket.
• Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Snug everything, then torque:
  • Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 40–55 Nm (30–41 ft-lbs)
  • Lower shock bolt: Torque to 90–120 Nm (66–89 ft-lbs)
• Tip: torque the lower bolt at normal ride height.

Step 4: Front strut removal (recommended: replace complete strut assemblies)

• Mark the strut-to-knuckle area with a paint marker to help you reassemble close to original position.
• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Disconnect the stabilizer (sway bar) end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key (Allen key holds the stud from spinning).
• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar. Use a pry bar as needed to separate.
• Open the hood and remove the strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 5: Front strut install

• Place the new complete strut into position and hand-start the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two large bolts using a 19mm socket.
• Reconnect the stabilizer end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key.
• Reinstall brake hose and ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Torque fasteners:
  • Strut mount nuts: Torque to 40–60 Nm (30–44 ft-lbs)
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 150–190 Nm (111–140 ft-lbs)
  • Stabilizer end link nut: Torque to 65–85 Nm (48–63 ft-lbs)
  • Brake hose/ABS bracket bolts: Torque to 8–12 Nm (71–106 in-lbs)

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering lock-to-lock slowly to confirm nothing rubs or pulls tight.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks (usually a loose end link or top nut).
• Get a front-wheel alignment after front strut replacement.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only, depending on strut/shock quality)

You Save: $450-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.