🔧 Terrain - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Terrain, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a complete strut assembly (a “strut” is a shock absorber built into a structural unit with the spring seat). The steps below cover rear shock replacement and front strut replacement so you can do whichever end you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1-2 hours (both) | Front: 3-5 hours (both)

Assumption: Stock suspension; replacing both left/right as a pair.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands on the pinch welds/subframe; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust/road debris falls when parts move.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring is stored energy. If you are not installing complete quick-struts, you must use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely compresses the spring) correctly.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench (19mm)
• Socket set (8mm-24mm)
• Wrench set (8mm-24mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• Ratchet (1/2-inch drive)
• Extension set (3/8-inch drive)
• Torx bit set
• Pry bar (18-inch)
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Trim clip tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorber (replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mount hardware kit (if corroded) - Qty: 1
• Front complete strut assembly (quick-strut) (recommended; replace in pairs) - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts (recommended if rusted/one-time-use style) - Qty: 1 set
• Front sway bar end link (optional if boots torn/loose) - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
• Spray penetrating oil on the shock/strut bolts and nuts 10-15 minutes before removal.
• If doing front struts: plan for an alignment afterward (strut removal changes camber).
• If not using quick-struts: read the coil spring compressor instructions fully before touching the top nut.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the SUV

• Use a 19mm lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack to lift the correct end of the vehicle, then place jack stands securely.
• Remove the wheels using the 19mm lug wrench.

Step 2 (Rear): Support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack lightly under the rear lower control arm near the shock location to support it.
• This prevents a sudden drop.

Step 3 (Rear): Remove the lower shock bolt

• Use a breaker bar (1/2-inch) with the correct socket and a matching wrench on the nut.
• If it’s stuck, re-spray penetrating oil and tap the bolt with a hammer (2 lb) and punch.

Step 4 (Rear): Remove the upper shock fastener(s)

• Access the upper mount (typically behind interior trim panels in the cargo area).
• Use a trim clip tool to remove retainers, then a ratchet (3/8-inch) with the correct socket to remove the upper fastener(s).
• Remove the rear shock.

Step 5 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Position the new shock and start the upper fastener(s) by hand using a ratchet (3/8-inch).
• Line up the lower mount and install the lower bolt by hand, then snug using a ratchet (1/2-inch).
• With the suspension supported at near-normal ride height using the floor jack, torque fasteners:
• Upper shock fastener(s): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
• Lower shock bolt/nut: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)

Step 6 (Front): Remove brackets from the strut

• Use the correct socket to remove the brake hose/ABS wire bracket bolts from the strut body.
• Move the hose/wire aside so nothing is stretched when the strut comes out.

Step 7 (Front): Disconnect the sway bar end link (if attached to strut)

• Use the correct wrench and socket to remove the end link nut.
• If the stud spins, use your Torx bit set in the stud while turning the nut with a wrench.
• End link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)

Step 8 (Front): Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Mark the strut-to-knuckle position using a paint marker to help keep alignment close.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar (1/2-inch), correct socket, and wrench.
• If the knuckle clamps onto the strut, use a strut spreader tool (specialty) to slightly open the clamp.
• Support the knuckle with the floor jack so it doesn’t pull on the axle/brake hose.
• Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

Step 9 (Front): Remove the strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood and locate the strut mount nuts at the top of the strut tower.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the mount nuts using a ratchet (3/8-inch) and correct socket.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 10 (Front): Swap spring (only if NOT using quick-struts)

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly until the spring is loose in the seats.
• Remove the center top nut using the correct socket and wrench, then transfer the mount/bearing/isolators.
• If this feels unsafe, use quick-struts.

Step 11 (Front): Install the new strut assembly

• Guide the strut into the tower and hand-thread the upper mount nuts using a ratchet (3/8-inch).
• Slide the strut into the knuckle and install the knuckle bolts using the correct socket and wrench.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using the correct wrench and socket.
• Reinstall all brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket.
• Torque all fasteners listed in Steps 7-9.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the SUV

• Install the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
• Re-check all visible fasteners and brackets after the test drive.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• If the ride height looks uneven, confirm both springs are seated correctly (front, if reusing springs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $220-$900 (parts only, depending on quick-struts vs shocks)

You Save: $480-$700+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours (front + rear).

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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