🔧 Escape - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Escape, the “shock absorbers” are rear shocks, while the front uses struts (a strut is a shock with a spring mount built in). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and tire cupping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear only: 1-2 hours; front struts: 2-4 hours)

Assumption: Stock suspension; steps cover rear shocks and front struts.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Escape with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If doing front struts: the coil spring stores serious energy. Use a spring compressor only if you are reusing springs, or use complete strut assemblies to avoid compressing the spring.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension arms.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire—support it.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• Socket set 10mm-24mm
• Wrench set 10mm-24mm
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Torque wrench 20-250 Nm range
• Torx bit set (T30-T50)
• Pry bar 18"
• Hammer 16 oz
• Needle-nose pliers
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground with wheel chocks.
• Crack the lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 19mm socket before lifting.
• Spray the lower shock/strut bolts with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
• If doing front struts, plan on a wheel alignment after.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the Escape

• Use a floor jack to lift the end you’re working on (rear for shocks, front for struts).
• Place jack stands under the proper pinch welds/subframe and lower onto them.
• Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Rear shocks - remove the lower shock bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack (just snug, not lifting the vehicle).
• Remove the lower shock bolt/nut using a socket set 15mm-21mm and a breaker bar.
• Tip: Add penetrating oil and tap bolt gently.

Step 3: Rear shocks - remove the upper mount and take the shock out

• Open the rear cargo area and access the upper shock mount area (trim access varies; use needle-nose pliers for push pins if needed).
• Remove the upper shock nut(s) using a socket set 13mm-15mm.
• Remove the shock from the vehicle by hand; use a pry bar 18" if it’s stuck.

Step 4: Rear shocks - install the new shock

• Install the new shock into the upper mount first by hand.
• Start the upper nut(s) by hand, then snug using a socket set 13mm-15mm.
• Line up the lower mount and install the lower bolt using a socket set 15mm-21mm.
• Torque the fasteners with a torque wrench:
• Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs)
• Torque the rear upper shock nut(s) to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Front struts - disconnect brackets and stabilizer link

• Turn the steering for access as needed (wheel off the ground).
• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or Torx bit set (fastener style varies).
• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link nut at the strut using a socket set 15mm-18mm and Torx bit set to hold the stud if it spins.
• Torque the stabilizer link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
• Tip: Mark bracket locations with a paint marker.

Step 6: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a socket set 18mm-21mm and a breaker bar.
• Tap bolts out using a hammer 16 oz if needed.

Step 7: Front struts - remove the strut from the body

• Open the hood.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the top mount nuts using a socket set 13mm-15mm.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
• Safety note: If you are NOT using a complete strut assembly, use a spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so you can safely remove the top nut.

Step 8: Front struts - install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut into the strut tower and start the top nuts by hand.
• Slide the knuckle into place and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a socket set 18mm-21mm.
• Reconnect the stabilizer link and all brackets using the correct socket set / Torx bit set.
• Torque the fasteners with a torque wrench:
• Torque the front strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs)
• Torque the front upper strut mount nuts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the Escape

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and re-check fasteners if anything sounds off.
• If you replaced front struts, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench: 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
• Tip: New suspension may feel firmer at first.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,900 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $250-$850 (parts only, depending on brands and front/rear)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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