🔧 Colorado - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Colorado, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a strut assembly (shock + coil spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (rear shocks + front struts)

Assumption: Stock suspension with standard (non-Z71) hardware.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Never loosen the strut’s center top nut while the spring is not safely compressed (the spring stores serious energy).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the control arm and axle.
• ⚠️ If using a spring compressor, inspect it for damage and tighten both sides evenly.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 22mm socket
• Socket set 10mm-24mm
• Wrench set 10mm-24mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30-200 ft-lbs)
• Pry bar 18"-24"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Dead blow mallet
• Spring compressor (external, threaded-rod type) (specialty)
• Allen/hex key set
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks on the opposite end of the truck you’re lifting.
• Loosen wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a lug wrench or 22mm socket before lifting.
• Spray all shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Tip: Do one side at a time to match orientation.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the truck

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear (or front) at the proper jack point.
• Set the frame securely onto jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using a lug wrench or 22mm socket.

Step 2: Replace the rear shocks (each side)

• Support the rear axle lightly with the floor jack (just enough to hold it).
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a socket and wrench set.
• Remove the upper shock bolt using a socket and wrench set.
• Work the old shock out. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
• Install the new shock in the same direction as the old one.
• Snug the upper and lower bolts by hand first using a ratchet to avoid cross-threading.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) (upper and lower typical).
• Tip: Tighten with the axle at normal ride height.

Step 3: Remove the front strut assembly (each side)

• Turn the steering for better access (left for right side, right for left side).
• Unclip any ABS/brake line brackets from the strut using needle-nose pliers and a 10mm socket if equipped.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Remove the strut-to-steering-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar, socket set, and wrench set.
• Open the hood and remove the strut top mount nuts using a socket set.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 4: If reusing springs, transfer the spring to the new strut

• Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the coil spring. Tighten evenly until the spring is loose in the mount.
• Remove the strut shaft center nut using a socket and an allen/hex key set (the hex holds the shaft from spinning).
• Move the spring and isolators (rubber seats) to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Install the new strut mount/bearing, then tighten the center nut: Torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Slowly loosen the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.
• Tip: If anything looks crooked, recompress and reseat.

Step 5: Reinstall the front strut assembly

• Position the strut into the tower and hand-start the top nuts using a socket set.
• Align the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle and install the bolts using a hammer or dead blow mallet if needed.
• Tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 160 Nm (118 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the top mount nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
• Reattach any brackets/clips using a 10mm socket and needle-nose pliers.

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Install wheels and hand-start lug nuts.
• Lower the truck using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Test-bounce each corner by hand; it should settle quickly without extra bouncing.
• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks (usually a loose bolt or misrouted line).
• Get a front-end alignment after front strut replacement (recommended immediately).
• Recheck visible fasteners after the first short drive for peace of mind.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,900 (parts + labor, front + rear)

DIY Cost: $250-$850 (parts only, depending on brand and whether you replace front mounts)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.