🔧 LaCrosse - Shock Absorber / Strut Replacement

On your LaCrosse, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock that also supports the spring and sets alignment angles). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Standard suspension (no electronic/magnetic ride).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ If you disassemble front struts, the coil spring is under high force. Use a coil spring compressor (a tool that safely squeezes the spring) or replace complete quick-struts.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
• ⚠️ After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent pulling and tire wear.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is typically required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–250 Nm range)
• Socket set (8mm–24mm, 1/2" drive)
• Socket set (8mm–18mm, 3/8" drive)
• Wrench set (10mm–24mm)
• Torx bit set (T20–T50)
• Pry bar (18")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Punch (6mm)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front struts or complete quick-strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounts/bearings - If not included with quick-struts - Qty: 2
• New strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - If torque-to-yield hardware is specified - Qty: 1 set
• New rear shock mounting hardware - As needed - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of any camber/strut-to-knuckle alignment features before disassembly (helps you drive to the alignment shop).
• Spray all shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil 10–15 minutes before removal.
• If you’re not comfortable using a coil spring compressor, choose complete quick-strut assemblies for the front.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the car

• Use a breaker bar and 19mm socket to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift the front or rear with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
• Remove the wheels with a 19mm socket.
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Rear shock replacement (one side at a time)

• Support the rear suspension arm with a floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock bolt is removed.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a socket and wrench set.
• Access the upper shock mount nuts (typically inside the trunk/side trim area); remove trim fasteners with a trim clip removal tool and remove nuts using a socket set.
• Remove the shock, install the new shock in the same orientation, and start all fasteners by hand.
• Snug the fasteners, then raise the suspension arm with the floor jack until it’s close to normal ride height (this reduces bushing twist).
• Tighten mounts: Upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
• Tighten mounts: Lower shock bolt: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

Step 3: Front strut removal (one side at a time)

• Turn the steering to give yourself working room.
• Detach the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using the correct socket or Torx bit (do not open the brake hydraulic system).
• Disconnect the stabilizer (sway bar) end link from the strut using a wrench and socket; hold the stud with the appropriate Torx bit if it spins.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship with a paint marker.
• Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack.
• Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a breaker bar and appropriate socket/wrench.
• Under the hood, remove the strut top nuts using a socket set while holding the strut so it doesn’t fall.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 4: Front strut installation (quick-strut recommended)

• If installing a complete quick-strut, position it in the tower and start the top nuts by hand.
• Slide the strut into the steering knuckle. Use a strut spreader tool (specialty) if your knuckle is a clamp-style fit (it opens the knuckle slightly so the strut can slide in).
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts. Tighten evenly.
• Reconnect the stabilizer end link and any brackets for brake hose/ABS wire using the correct socket or Torx bit.
• Tighten top mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
• Tighten stabilizer end link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
• Tighten strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
• Tip: Start all bolts by hand first.

Step 5: If reusing springs (only if not using quick-struts)

• Install a coil spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose on the mount.
• Remove the strut shaft nut using a socket while holding the shaft with the appropriate Torx bit if required.
• Transfer the spring, dust boot, and mount to the new strut in the same orientation, then tighten the shaft nut.
• Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and final checks

• Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• Repeat the same process on the other side (replace shocks/struts in pairs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible after front strut replacement.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles of driving: 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
• If the ride height looks uneven, confirm springs are seated correctly in their perches.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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