How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Buick Encore
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Buick Encore
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes


đź”§ Encore - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Encore, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, and the front uses strut assemblies (a shock + coil spring + mount). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; torque specs shown are for the Encore/Trax platform.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
- ⚠️ If you disassemble a front strut (swap spring), the coil spring is stored energy—use a coil spring compressor (specialty) and keep hands/face out of the spring’s path.
- ⚠️ Support the rear axle/suspension arm with a jack before removing shock bolts to prevent sudden drop.
- ⚠️ Do not let the brake hose or ABS wire hang or stretch—support the knuckle if needed.
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is typically required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 1/2" (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set metric 8mm-21mm
- Wrench set metric 8mm-21mm
- Torx bit set
- Trim panel tool set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil
- Pry bar
- Paint marker
- Coil spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies (Quick-Struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Replace if corroded/damaged - Qty: 4
- Rear shock mounting hardware - Replace if corroded/damaged - Qty: 1 kit
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
- Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Spray stubborn fasteners (rear lower shock bolt, front strut bolts) with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
- If you’re not using complete strut assemblies: a coil spring compressor is a tool that clamps the spring so it can be safely removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the vehicle
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear (center jacking point), then set the rear on jack stands.
- Remove rear wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Access the rear upper shock mounts
- Open the rear hatch.
- Use a trim panel tool set to carefully pop off the side cargo trim panels enough to reach the shock top nuts.
- Locate the upper shock mount nuts (one per side).
Step 3: Remove the rear shocks
- Support the rear suspension arm/axle near the shock with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 18mm socket and breaker bar.
- Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Pull the shock out. Use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
Step 4: Install the new rear shocks
- Position the new shock and start the upper nuts by hand using a 13mm socket (don’t fully tighten yet).
- Align the lower mount and install the lower bolt using an 18mm socket.
- With the suspension supported at normal ride height (jack lightly lifting the arm), torque fasteners:
- Torque rear lower shock bolt to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)
- Torque rear upper shock mount nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Step 5: Reinstall rear trim and wheels
- Reinstall cargo trim panels using the trim panel tool set to seat clips.
- Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
Step 6: Lift and secure the front for strut replacement
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Use a floor jack to lift the front, support with jack stands, then remove front wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 7: Disconnect items attached to the front strut
- Remove the ABS/brake hose brackets from the strut using the correct socket (commonly 10mm socket).
- Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using an 18mm socket and matching wrench.
- Tip: Hold the link stud with a Torx bit if it spins.
Step 8: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle
- Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position for reference.
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 18mm socket and breaker bar.
- Support the knuckle so it doesn’t pull on the axle or hoses.
Step 9: Remove the front strut assembly
- Open the hood.
- Remove the strut mount nuts at the strut tower using a 13mm socket (leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut).
- Remove the last nut and lower the strut out.
Step 10: Install the new front strut assembly
- Guide the new strut into the strut tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 13mm socket.
- Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using an 18mm socket.
- Reconnect the sway bar link using an 18mm socket and wrench.
- Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
- Torque fasteners:
- Torque front strut upper mount nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Torque front strut-to-knuckle bolts to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
- Torque front sway bar end link nut to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall front wheels using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
âś… After Repair
- Do a slow test drive. Listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the steering feels normal.
- Recheck for any loose bracket bolts and look for stretched ABS/brake hoses.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing front struts (very important to prevent tire wear).
- After 50–100 miles, re-check lug nut torque with a torque wrench 1/2".
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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