How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Acura RDX
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Acura RDX
Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 RDX - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your RDX, the “shocks” are rear shock absorbers, and the front uses struts (a shock + coil spring assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours
Assumption: Replacing both front struts and rear shocks with stock-style parts; torque specs listed are best-effort and should be verified against Acura service information for your exact hardware.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the RDX on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Coil springs store serious energy. If you are not using complete “quick strut” assemblies, you must use a spring compressor (a clamp tool that safely compresses the coil spring).
- ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire relaxed; do not let the knuckle hang by them.
- ⚠️ Tighten suspension “bushing” bolts at normal ride height (vehicle supported under the control arm) to prevent bushing twist and premature wear.
- ⚠️ An alignment is strongly recommended after front strut replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 19mm
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Ratchet 1/2"
- Socket set metric 10mm-22mm
- Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 20-200 Nm
- Hex key set metric 5mm-8mm
- Pry bar 18"
- Hammer 16 oz
- Punch 6mm
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Pass-through socket set (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front strut assemblies (complete “quick strut” recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount/bearing kit - Qty: 2
- Front bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mounts - Qty: 2
- Rear bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
- New strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Qty: 2 sets
- New rear lower shock bolts/nuts - Qty: 2 sets
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if starting at the front.
- Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket before lifting.
- Spray penetrating oil on strut/shock bolts using penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
- If you are not using complete quick struts, set up your spring compressor on a workbench area before removing the strut.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jack point.
- Set the RDX onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) at the pinch welds or approved support points.
- Remove both front wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket.
Step 2: Detach brackets from the front strut
- Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
- Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire.
Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar end link (if needed)
- Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench (or 17mm socket).
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key while turning the nut with a 17mm wrench.
Step 4: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and knuckle (helps keep alignment close).
- Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
- Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Tap bolts out using a hammer 16 oz and punch 6mm if needed.
- Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) on reassembly (strut-to-knuckle bolts).
Step 5: Remove the front strut assembly
- Open the hood.
- Remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Hold the strut so it doesn’t fall, then guide it out of the wheel well.
Step 6: If reusing the spring, transfer parts to the new strut
- Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose from the top mount.
- Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with the correct hex key.
- Transfer the top mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
- Install the center shaft nut and Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
- Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.
- Tip: Ensure spring ends sit in pockets.
Step 7: Install the front strut
- Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Align the knuckle to the strut and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
- Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) (strut-to-knuckle bolts).
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) (upper strut mount nuts).
Step 8: Reconnect sway bar end link and brackets
- Install the end link nut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key if needed.
- Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) (front end link nut).
- Reinstall brake/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) (small bracket bolts).
Step 9: Install front wheels and lower the front
- Install wheels hand-tight using a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) (lug nuts) in a star pattern using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm.
Step 10: Replace the rear shocks (one side at a time)
- Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the rear with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair).
- Remove the rear wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Support the rear lower control arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Access the upper shock mount nuts from inside the cargo area by removing trim clips using a trim clip tool.
- Remove the upper shock nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
- Install the new shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
- With the control arm supported at normal ride height, tighten fasteners:
- Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) (rear upper shock nuts).
- Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) (rear lower shock bolt).
Step 11: Reinstall rear wheel and repeat on the other side
- Install the wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.
- Lower and Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) (lug nuts) using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm.
- Repeat Steps 10-11 on the other rear side.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm no rubbing or stretched wires.
- Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
- Re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm after 50-100 km.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment (highly recommended after front struts).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹12,000-₹35,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹13,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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