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2016 Acura RDX
2016 Acura RDX
Base - V6 3.5L
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Acura RDX strut and shocks replacement 2013-2018

Acura RDX strut and shocks replacement 2013-2018

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Acura RDX

Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016 Acura RDX

Step-by-step suspension replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 RDX - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your RDX, the “shocks” are rear shock absorbers, and the front uses struts (a shock + coil spring assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: Replacing both front struts and rear shocks with stock-style parts; torque specs listed are best-effort and should be verified against Acura service information for your exact hardware.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the RDX on jack stands only; never rely on a jack.
  • ⚠️ Coil springs store serious energy. If you are not using complete “quick strut” assemblies, you must use a spring compressor (a clamp tool that safely compresses the coil spring).
  • ⚠️ Keep the brake hose and ABS wire relaxed; do not let the knuckle hang by them.
  • ⚠️ Tighten suspension “bushing” bolts at normal ride height (vehicle supported under the control arm) to prevent bushing twist and premature wear.
  • ⚠️ An alignment is strongly recommended after front strut replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug nut socket 19mm
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Ratchet 1/2"
  • Socket set metric 10mm-22mm
  • Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 20-200 Nm
  • Hex key set metric 5mm-8mm
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Hammer 16 oz
  • Punch 6mm
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through socket set (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies (complete “quick strut” recommended) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
  • Rear upper shock mounts - Qty: 2
  • Rear bump stop + dust boot kit - Qty: 2
  • New strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts - Qty: 2 sets
  • New rear lower shock bolts/nuts - Qty: 2 sets

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if starting at the front.
  • Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket before lifting.
  • Spray penetrating oil on strut/shock bolts using penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
  • If you are not using complete quick struts, set up your spring compressor on a workbench area before removing the strut.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels

  • Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jack point.
  • Set the RDX onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) at the pinch welds or approved support points.
  • Remove both front wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Detach brackets from the front strut

  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on the ABS wire.

Step 3: Disconnect the front sway bar end link (if needed)

  • Remove the sway bar end link nut at the strut using a 17mm wrench (or 17mm socket).
  • If the stud spins, hold it with a 6mm hex key while turning the nut with a 17mm wrench.

Step 4: Mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and knuckle (helps keep alignment close).
  • Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop.
  • Remove the two lower strut bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • Tap bolts out using a hammer 16 oz and punch 6mm if needed.
  • Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) on reassembly (strut-to-knuckle bolts).

Step 5: Remove the front strut assembly

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove the upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Hold the strut so it doesn’t fall, then guide it out of the wheel well.

Step 6: If reusing the spring, transfer parts to the new strut

  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and tighten evenly until the spring is loose from the top mount.
  • Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft with the correct hex key.
  • Transfer the top mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
  • Install the center shaft nut and Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).
  • Slowly release the spring compressor evenly until the spring seats fully.
  • Tip: Ensure spring ends sit in pockets.

Step 7: Install the front strut

  • Position the strut in the tower and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the knuckle to the strut and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
  • Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) (strut-to-knuckle bolts).
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) (upper strut mount nuts).

Step 8: Reconnect sway bar end link and brackets

  • Install the end link nut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key if needed.
  • Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) (front end link nut).
  • Reinstall brake/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) (small bracket bolts).

Step 9: Install front wheels and lower the front

  • Install wheels hand-tight using a 19mm lug nut socket.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) (lug nuts) in a star pattern using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm.

Step 10: Replace the rear shocks (one side at a time)

  • Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
  • Lift the rear with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair).
  • Remove the rear wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.
  • Support the rear lower control arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • Access the upper shock mount nuts from inside the cargo area by removing trim clips using a trim clip tool.
  • Remove the upper shock nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
  • Install the new shock and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
  • With the control arm supported at normal ride height, tighten fasteners:
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs) (rear upper shock nuts).
  • Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) (rear lower shock bolt).

Step 11: Reinstall rear wheel and repeat on the other side

  • Install the wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.
  • Lower and Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs) (lug nuts) using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm.
  • Repeat Steps 10-11 on the other rear side.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm no rubbing or stretched wires.
  • Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks over small bumps.
  • Re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm after 50-100 km.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment (highly recommended after front struts).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹12,000-₹35,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹13,000-₹20,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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