🔧 ILX - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your ILX, the “shocks” are split into two setups: the front uses complete strut assemblies (shock + spring together), and the rear uses separate shock absorbers (spring sits separately). Replacing worn units restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

Assumption: Torque specs shown are common ILX/Honda values—verify with Acura service data for your exact fasteners.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ The front strut spring is under extreme force—use a spring compressor correctly or use complete quick-strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands on the proper lift points; never rely on the floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Support the steering knuckle so the axle and brake hose are not stretched.
• ⚠️ After front strut work, get a 4-wheel alignment ASAP (steering pull and tire wear risk).
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 6mm hex key
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (left & right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers (left & right) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kit - If not included with complete struts - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mounts - If worn/cracked - Qty: 2
• Rear shock dust boot & bump stop kit - If torn - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (for front work) or front wheels (for rear work).
• Use a 19mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the large strut-to-knuckle bolts and rear shock bolts.
• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position. This helps you drive to alignment more safely.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) and set the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove lug nuts with a 19mm socket, then remove the wheels.

Step 2: Front—disconnect brackets and stabilizer (sway bar) link

• On the strut body, remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) end link from the strut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm hex key so it doesn’t spin.
• Tip: Turn the steering for more room.

Step 3: Front—remove the strut from the steering knuckle

• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack (light pressure only).
• Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Keep the knuckle supported so the axle and brake hose don’t pull tight.
• Torque to 125–135 Nm (92–100 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 4: Front—remove the strut assembly from the body

• Open the hood.
• Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Hold the strut with one hand as the last nut comes off, then remove the strut from the wheel well.
• Torque to 44–49 Nm (32–36 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 5: Front—swap parts (choose one method)

• Best for beginners: Install complete quick-strut assemblies (pre-assembled strut + spring + mount). No spring compressor needed.
• If reusing the spring: Use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the spring evenly (a few turns per side).
• Remove the center shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) while holding the shaft as required.
• Transfer spring seat/boot/bump stop/mount as needed, then tighten the shaft nut.
• Torque to 60–70 Nm (44–52 ft-lbs) for the strut shaft nut (verify exact spec for your strut hardware).
• Tip: Never point the spring at your body.

Step 6: Front—install the strut and reconnect everything

• Place the strut up into the strut tower and hand-thread the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the strut with the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
• Reconnect sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key. Torque to 40–50 Nm (30–37 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket/12mm socket. Torque to 9–12 Nm (7–9 ft-lbs).
• Final-tighten the three top nuts using a torque wrench. Torque to 44–49 Nm (32–36 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Rear—access the upper shock mounts

• Open the trunk.
• Remove the necessary trunk side trim panels using a trim clip tool and needle-nose pliers for clips.
• Locate the rear shock upper mount nuts.

Step 8: Rear—remove the rear shock

• Support the rear lower control arm lightly with the floor jack.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
• Lower bolt torque: 55–70 Nm (41–52 ft-lbs) (verify for your fastener).
• Upper nut torque: 20–30 Nm (15–22 ft-lbs) (verify for your mount hardware).

Step 9: Rear—install the new rear shock

• Install the new shock into the upper mount area first and hand-thread the upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower shock eye with the control arm and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Snug fasteners now, but do the final torque with the suspension at normal ride height.

Step 10: Set ride height and final-torque (important)

• Use the floor jack under the control arm/knuckle to raise the suspension until it looks like normal ride height.
• Torque the rear lower shock bolt using a torque wrench: 55–70 Nm (41–52 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall trunk trim using a trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Do a slow test drive. Listen for clunks over bumps and confirm the steering wheel is centered.
• Recheck all visible fasteners and brackets for tightness.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment (especially after front struts).
• If you replaced struts/shocks, expect the ride height to settle slightly over a few days.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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