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2016 Hyundai Santa Fe
2016 - 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
SE
Compatible with more variants.
2017 - 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
Limited Ultimate
2017 - 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
SE Ultimate
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  • Guides
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  • Hyundai Santa Fe
  • /
  • 2016
  • /
  • How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Trim: Limited)
How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe

How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Trim: Limited)

Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Trim: Limited)

Step-by-step suspension replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Santa Fe - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Santa Fe, the front suspension uses strut assemblies (shock + spring together) and the rear uses separate shock absorbers. Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours (all four)

Assumption: stock suspension; torque values are common OEM ranges—verify with a model-specific service spec if available.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
  • 🛑 A front strut contains a compressed coil spring; use a spring compressor correctly or replace the complete pre-assembled strut.
  • 🛑 Keep hands/face away from the spring path while compressing.
  • 🛑 Support the steering knuckle so you don’t over-stretch the CV axle (front drive shaft) or brake hose.
  • 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar 1/2"
  • Torque wrench 1/2" (20–200 ft-lbs range)
  • 21mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • Ratchet 3/8"
  • Extensions 3/8"
  • Combination wrench set 10–22mm
  • Pry bar 18"
  • Hammer 2 lb
  • Punch set
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount/bearing kit - Replace in pairs (if reusing springs) - Qty: 2
  • Front bump stops and dust boots - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock upper/lower mounting hardware kit - Optional (recommended if rusty) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
  • Use a 21mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
  • Spray all strut/shock bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
  • If you’re not using complete front strut assemblies: a spring compressor is required (it clamps the spring so it can’t expand suddenly).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the Santa Fe

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift one end of the vehicle at a time.
  • Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Front struts — disconnect brackets and sway bar link

  • Turn the steering for better access as needed.
  • Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
  • Remove the front sway bar end link from the strut using a 17mm socket and a combination wrench to hold the stud if it spins.
  • Tip: Mark bracket locations before removal.

Step 3: Front struts — separate strut from steering knuckle

  • Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack (light pressure) so it doesn’t drop.
  • Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions using a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
  • Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
  • If the bolts are stuck, tap them out using a hammer 2 lb and punch set.

Step 4: Front struts — remove the strut assembly

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove the strut top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Carefully pull the strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 5: Front struts — if reusing springs, transfer parts safely

  • Install the spring compressor (specialty) onto the coil spring, opposite sides, with hooks fully seated.
  • Tighten evenly using a ratchet 3/8" until the spring is loose in the top mount.
  • Remove the center strut shaft nut using a pass-through strut nut socket set (specialty) and a combination wrench.
  • Transfer the mount/bearing, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
  • Release the spring compressor slowly and evenly.
  • Tip: If unsure, buy complete strut assemblies.

Step 6: Front struts — reinstall and torque

  • Position the strut into the tower and start the top nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 19mm socket.
  • Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 150–180 Nm (111–133 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Torque strut top mount nuts to 40–55 Nm (30–41 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Reconnect sway bar end link using a 17mm socket; Torque to 75–95 Nm (55–70 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket/12mm socket; Torque to 8–12 Nm (6–9 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Rear shocks — remove lower bolt

  • Move to the rear and support the rear lower control arm slightly using a floor jack.
  • Remove the rear shock lower mounting bolt using a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".

Step 8: Rear shocks — remove upper mount nuts/bolt (two common access paths)

  • Wheel-well access (common): peel back/loosen the liner using a 10mm socket to reach the shock’s upper nuts, then remove with a 14mm socket.
  • Cargo-area access (some builds): remove the side trim fasteners using a trim/panel tool (use a pry bar 18" carefully if needed), then remove upper nuts with a 14mm socket.
  • Remove the shock from the vehicle.

Step 9: Rear shocks — install and torque

  • Install the new shock and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Install the lower bolt using a 19mm socket.
  • Torque rear shock upper fasteners to 35–55 Nm (26–41 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Torque rear shock lower bolt to 90–120 Nm (66–89 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".
  • Reinstall any liner/trim using a 10mm socket.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2".

✅ After Repair

  • 🧪 Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify straight braking.
  • Re-check all visible fasteners and brackets after the test drive.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (front strut removal can change alignment).
  • Tip: Uneven tire wear means align immediately.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹25,000–₹60,000 (parts + labor, varies by brand and rust)

DIY Cost: ₹12,000–₹40,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹13,000–₹20,000+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary; this repair takes a shop approximately 4–6 hours.


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