🔧 Corolla - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Corolla, the rear uses shock absorbers, and the front uses struts (a strut is a shock with a spring mounted on it). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride comfort, braking stability, and tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock suspension; torque specs shown are common Corolla E170 values—verify if your replacement hardware differs.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 If doing front struts, the coil spring stores a lot of energy—use a coil spring compressor correctly, or use complete pre-assembled struts to avoid spring compression.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating suspension parts; they can move suddenly.
• 🛑 After suspension work, you should get a 4-wheel alignment soon to prevent tire wear.
• 🔧 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-200 ft-lbs)
• Socket set metric 8mm-22mm
• Wrench set metric 10mm-19mm
• Allen key set metric 5mm-8mm
• Pry bar 18"
• Hammer 16 oz
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut spreader tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing kit - If not using complete strut assemblies - Qty: 2
• Front strut dust boot and bump stop kit - If not included - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper mounts - If worn/noisy - Qty: 2
• New self-locking suspension nuts/bolts - If required by kit - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks at the wheels staying on the ground.
• Crack the lug nuts loose with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 5-10 minutes.
• Plan an alignment after the front struts are replaced.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

• Use a floor jack to lift the front (or rear) at the proper jacking point, then place jack stands under the pinch welds/subframe.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)

• Support the rear suspension arm with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop.
• Open the trunk and peel back the side trunk liner using a trim clip removal tool to access the shock upper mount nuts.
• Remove the upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• Pull the shock out.

Step 3: Rear shock installation

• Install the new shock into position by hand.
• Start the upper mount nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
• With the suspension arm supported at near-normal ride height using the floor jack, torque fasteners:
• Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
• Torque the rear upper mount nuts to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall trunk trim using the trim clip removal tool.

Step 4: Front strut removal

• Turn the steering to give yourself room.
• Unclip any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using needle-nose pliers and a 10mm socket as needed.
• Remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key.
• Mark the strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker (helps keep alignment close).
• Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Under the hood, remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.

Step 5: If reusing springs, transfer parts to the new strut

• A coil spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely compresses the spring so the top nut can be removed.
• Install the coil spring compressor on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly with a socket set metric 8mm-22mm until the spring is loose at the top mount.
• Remove the strut shaft top nut using a socket set metric 8mm-22mm while holding the shaft with an Allen key set metric 5mm-8mm as needed.
• Transfer the mount/bearing, spring, dust boot, and bump stop to the new strut.
• Install the top nut and tighten with a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs): Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor, alternating sides.
• If unsure, use complete strut assemblies.

Step 6: Front strut installation

• Position the strut in the tower and hand-start the three upper mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Seat the strut into the steering knuckle. Use a strut spreader tool to slightly open the knuckle clamp if needed (it’s a wedge tool that helps the knuckle slide on/off the strut).
• Install the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm wrench and hold with a 6mm Allen key: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket.
• Torque the upper mount nuts using a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs): Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-200 ft-lbs): Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Reinstall wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-200 ft-lbs): Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Take a short, slow test drive. Listen for clunks, rattles, or pulling.
• Re-check that all fasteners are torqued and that ABS/brake hose brackets are secured.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.
• After 50-100 miles, recheck lug nut torque using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-200 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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