🔧 Forte - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Forte, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, but the front uses a complete strut assembly (shock + spring). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Difficulty Level: Advanced (front) / Intermediate (rear) | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Torque specs shown are common OEM ranges; verify exact specs for your Forte before final tightening.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never work under a car supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• 🛑 Front struts contain a compressed coil spring; if you are not using a complete “quick-strut,” use a spring compressor correctly or you can be seriously injured.
• 🛑 Support the steering knuckle so the axle/CV joint isn’t pulled or over-bent when the strut is removed.
• 🛑 After front strut replacement, get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• 🛑 If any bolt feels seized, stop and use penetrating oil; forcing it can snap bolts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set metric 10mm-22mm (1/2" drive)
• Wrench set metric 10mm-22mm
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Trim clip tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Punch set
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Coil spring compressor (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies (quick-struts) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Qty: 2-4
• Rear shock mounting hardware - Qty: 2-4
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels when doing the front; place them in front of the front wheels when doing the rear.
• Spray penetrating oil on strut/shock bolts 15–30 minutes before removal.
• If you’re doing front struts: plan for a professional alignment afterward.
• If you are not using quick-struts: a coil spring compressor is the tool that safely squeezes the spring so you can remove the top nut.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the car

• Use a breaker bar 1/2" and 21mm socket to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Lift the front or rear with a floor jack and place jack stands under solid lift points.
• Remove the wheels using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Rear shocks - support the rear suspension

• Place the floor jack lightly under the rear beam/arm near the shock to support it.
• Tip: This prevents the suspension from dropping suddenly.

Step 3: Rear shocks - remove the lower shock bolt

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench (sizes may vary) to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
• If it’s stuck, use penetrating oil and tap the bolt with a rubber mallet and punch.

Step 4: Rear shocks - remove the upper mount nuts/bolt(s)

• Access the upper shock mount (typically inside the trunk behind trim).
• Use a trim clip tool to remove clips and pull back the trunk liner as needed.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the upper mount fasteners, then remove the shock.

Step 5: Rear shocks - install the new shock

• Position the new shock and hand-start the upper fasteners using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower mount and hand-start the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Raise/lower the suspension slightly with the floor jack until bolts slide in smoothly (no forcing).
• Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench 1/2" drive:
  • Lower shock bolt: Torque to 80-110 Nm (59-81 ft-lbs)
  • Upper mount fasteners: Torque to 20-35 Nm (15-26 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Front struts - remove brake line/ABS wire brackets from the strut

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket bolt(s) from the strut body.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release any clips holding the ABS wire to the strut.
• Tip: Don’t stretch the ABS wire.

Step 7: Front struts - disconnect the sway bar end link (if attached to strut)

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the end link nut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with an appropriate metric wrench while loosening the nut.
• Set the link aside.

Step 8: Front struts - mark and remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position (helps keep alignment close).
• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack.
• Use a breaker bar 1/2" with 19mm-22mm sockets and matching wrenches to remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
• If needed, drive bolts out using a punch set and rubber mallet.

Step 9: Front struts - remove the top mount nuts and remove the strut

• Open the hood and locate the strut tower nuts.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the top mount nuts (leave one nut loosely threaded until you’re ready to catch the strut).
• Hold the strut, remove the last nut, and pull the strut out from the wheel well.

Step 10: Front struts - install the new strut (quick-strut recommended)

• Place the new strut into position and hand-thread the top mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower strut with the steering knuckle and insert the bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a torque wrench 1/2" drive:
  • Strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 140-180 Nm (103-133 ft-lbs)
  • Top mount nuts: Torque to 35-55 Nm (26-41 ft-lbs)
• Reconnect the sway bar end link using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench: Torque to 50-70 Nm (37-52 ft-lbs)
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket: Torque to 8-12 Nm (6-9 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

• Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands with the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive: Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• 🚗 Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks over small bumps.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2" drive.
• Get a professional alignment after front struts to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• Look for leaks around the new shocks/struts after a few days of driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, includes alignment on many quotes)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, varies by quick-strut vs separate parts)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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