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2014 Toyota Corolla
2014 Toyota Corolla
LE - Inline 4 1.8L
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How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

How to Replace Front Strut & Spring Assemblies 2014-2019 Toyota Corolla

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014 Toyota Corolla

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014 Toyota Corolla

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

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🔧 Corolla - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement

On your Corolla, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, and the front uses struts (a shock built into a suspension assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front struts + both rear shocks)

Assumption: stock suspension; procedure covers front struts + rear shocks.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring under heavy force. If you are not using complete strut assemblies, a spring compressor (specialty) is required to avoid serious injury.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
  • ⚠️ After suspension work, get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.
  • Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Breaker bar (1/2")
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30-200 ft-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
  • Allen key set (6mm)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Rubber mallet
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Recommended replace if rusted or damaged - Qty: 4
  • Rear shock mounting hardware - Recommended replace if rusted or damaged - Qty: 1 kit

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels before lifting the front (and at the front wheels before lifting the rear).
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front strut-to-knuckle area to help keep alignment close until you get a professional alignment.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and rear shock bolts 10-15 minutes before removal.
  • If you are not using complete strut assemblies, prepare the spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the spring so it can be safely removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the car and remove the wheels

  • Use a breaker bar (1/2") and 21mm socket to slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheels you’ll be working on.
  • Use a floor jack to lift the car at the correct lift point, then set it down onto jack stands.
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheels.

Step 2: Remove the front strut (one side at a time)

  • On the strut body, remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
  • Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) link nut from the strut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if it spins.
  • Support the steering knuckle (the upright that holds the wheel hub) with the floor jack to prevent it from dropping.
  • Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") with 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
  • Open the hood. Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Pull the strut out. Use a pry bar (18") gently if needed to free it from the knuckle.

Step 3: Install the new front strut

  • Position the new strut in the strut tower and hand-thread the three upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
  • Line up the strut with the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
  • Torque the strut-to-knuckle fasteners: Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
  • Torque the upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the stabilizer link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key as needed: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket and snug them securely.
  • Repeat Steps 2-3 on the other front side.
  • Tip: Don’t fully tighten until parts are seated.

Step 4: Remove the rear shock (one side at a time)

  • Lift and support the rear using a floor jack and jack stands.
  • Support the rear suspension arm with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
  • Locate the lower shock bolt at the rear suspension arm. Remove it using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Access the upper shock mount inside the trunk (typically behind trunk trim). Remove trim fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers.
  • Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.

Step 5: Install the new rear shock

  • Install the new shock up into place and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
  • Align the lower shock mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
  • Torque the lower shock bolt: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • Torque the upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the trunk trim using the trim clip removal tool.
  • Repeat Steps 4-5 on the other rear side.

Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2") and 21mm socket: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Take a short, slow test drive. Listen for clunks and verify the car tracks straight.
  • Re-check for any loose brackets/lines near the struts and shocks.
  • Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front strut replacement).
  • After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench (1/2").

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, all four corners)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, depending on complete assemblies vs bare struts)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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