How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014 Toyota Corolla
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Corolla - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
On your Corolla, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, and the front uses struts (a shock built into a suspension assembly). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours (both front struts + both rear shocks)
Assumption: stock suspension; procedure covers front struts + rear shocks.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Front struts contain a coil spring under heavy force. If you are not using complete strut assemblies, a spring compressor (specialty) is required to avoid serious injury.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
- ⚠️ After suspension work, get a 4-wheel alignment to prevent tire wear and pulling.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 30-200 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm)
- Wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
- Allen key set (6mm)
- Pry bar (18")
- Rubber mallet
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts - Recommended replace if rusted or damaged - Qty: 4
- Rear shock mounting hardware - Recommended replace if rusted or damaged - Qty: 1 kit
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels before lifting the front (and at the front wheels before lifting the rear).
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front strut-to-knuckle area to help keep alignment close until you get a professional alignment.
- Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts and rear shock bolts 10-15 minutes before removal.
- If you are not using complete strut assemblies, prepare the spring compressor (specialty). A spring compressor squeezes the spring so it can be safely removed.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift the car and remove the wheels
- Use a breaker bar (1/2") and 21mm socket to slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheels you’ll be working on.
- Use a floor jack to lift the car at the correct lift point, then set it down onto jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheels.
Step 2: Remove the front strut (one side at a time)
- On the strut body, remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket).
- Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) link nut from the strut using a 17mm wrench and hold the stud with a 6mm Allen key if it spins.
- Support the steering knuckle (the upright that holds the wheel hub) with the floor jack to prevent it from dropping.
- Remove the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts using a breaker bar (1/2") with 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Open the hood. Remove the three upper strut mount nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Pull the strut out. Use a pry bar (18") gently if needed to free it from the knuckle.
Step 3: Install the new front strut
- Position the new strut in the strut tower and hand-thread the three upper nuts using a 14mm socket.
- Line up the strut with the steering knuckle and install the two lower bolts/nuts using a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench.
- Torque the strut-to-knuckle fasteners: Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
- Torque the upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
- Reconnect the stabilizer link using a 17mm wrench and 6mm Allen key as needed: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the brake hose/ABS brackets using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket and snug them securely.
- Repeat Steps 2-3 on the other front side.
- Tip: Don’t fully tighten until parts are seated.
Step 4: Remove the rear shock (one side at a time)
- Lift and support the rear using a floor jack and jack stands.
- Support the rear suspension arm with the floor jack so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
- Locate the lower shock bolt at the rear suspension arm. Remove it using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Access the upper shock mount inside the trunk (typically behind trunk trim). Remove trim fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and needle-nose pliers.
- Remove the upper shock mount nuts using a 14mm socket, then remove the shock.
Step 5: Install the new rear shock
- Install the new shock up into place and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
- Align the lower shock mount and install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
- Torque the lower shock bolt: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
- Torque the upper shock mount nuts: Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the trunk trim using the trim clip removal tool.
- Repeat Steps 4-5 on the other rear side.
Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (1/2") and 21mm socket: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Take a short, slow test drive. Listen for clunks and verify the car tracks straight.
- Re-check for any loose brackets/lines near the struts and shocks.
- Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible (especially after front strut replacement).
- After 50-100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench (1/2").
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor, all four corners)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only, depending on complete assemblies vs bare struts)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















