How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2017 Ford Expedition
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth ride
How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2017 Ford Expedition
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth ride for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Expedition - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Expedition, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a strut assembly (a shock + coil spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; torque values are common OE ranges—verify if your fasteners differ.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ The front strut contains a coil spring under high tension; use a spring compressor or replace the complete strut assembly to avoid disassembly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points while lowering/raising the control arm.
- ⚠️ If equipped with electronic stability/traction systems, avoid key-on while sensors are unplugged (prevents warnings).
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
- Socket set: 10mm-24mm
- Wrench set: 10mm-24mm
- Torx bit set (T30-T55)
- Pry bar (18")
- Hammer (2 lb)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
- Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
- Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
- If doing front struts, plan for an alignment afterward.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift one axle at a time.
- Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, then remove the wheels.
Step 2: Rear shocks - support the rear axle
- Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle tube to lightly support it.
- This prevents the axle from dropping when the shock is removed.
Step 3: Rear shocks - remove the lower mount
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
- If the bolt is tight, tap it out with a hammer (2 lb) while supporting the shock.
Step 4: Rear shocks - remove the upper mount
- Use a socket set: 10mm-24mm (commonly 15mm-18mm) to remove the upper shock fastener(s).
- Remove the rear shock.
Step 5: Rear shocks - install the new shock
- Install the new shock upper end first by hand-starting the fastener (use a ratchet).
- Align the lower mount by raising/lowering the axle slightly with the floor jack.
- Install the lower bolt/nut (use a socket and wrench to hold the nut).
- Tighten mounts: Torque upper shock fastener to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
- Tighten mounts: Torque lower shock bolt to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
- Tip: Tighten with the axle at normal height.
Step 6: Front struts - mark camber (if equipped with cam bolts)
- Look at the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts; if one is an eccentric (cam) bolt, mark its position.
- Use a paint marker to mark the bolt and knuckle so you can reassemble close to the original alignment.
Step 7: Front struts - disconnect the sway bar link (if it blocks removal)
- Use a wrench set: 10mm-24mm and Torx bit set (T30-T55) to hold the stud while removing the nut.
- This link reduces body roll; moving it gives you clearance.
- Tighten later: Torque sway bar link nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Front struts - free brackets and sensor wiring
- Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool.
- Do not let the brake hose hang or twist.
Step 9: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
- Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack.
- Use a 21mm-24mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
- Tap bolts out with a hammer (2 lb) if needed.
- Reinstall later: Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Front struts - remove the upper mount nuts
- Open the hood.
- Remove any cowl covers needed using a trim clip removal tool.
- Remove the 3 upper strut mount nuts using a 15mm socket.
- Reinstall later: Torque upper strut mount nuts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Front struts - remove and install the strut
- Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
- Install the new complete strut assembly into the tower and hand-start the 3 top nuts (use a 15mm socket).
- Slide the knuckle back into place and install the two lower bolts/nuts (use a socket and wrench).
- Torque fasteners: Torque upper strut mount nuts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
- Torque fasteners: Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).
Step 12: If you are NOT using complete struts (spring transfer)
- Use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the coil spring before removing the center nut.
- A spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter.
- Remove the center nut using a socket set: 10mm-24mm and Torx bit set (T30-T55) as needed to hold the shaft.
- Transfer spring and mount, then reinstall center nut: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
- Tip: If unsure, buy complete struts.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the SUV
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts (use a 21mm socket).
- Lower the SUV off jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque lug nuts to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks or rattles over bumps.
- Recheck all visible fasteners after a short drive.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement (prevents tire wear and steering pull).
- If the ride feels bouncy, confirm shocks are installed in the correct orientation and fully tightened.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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