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2016 Ford Expedition
2014 - 2017 Ford Expedition
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  • Guides
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  • Ford Expedition
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2017 Ford Expedition
How To Replace Rear Strut 2007-2017 Ford Expedition

How To Replace Rear Strut 2007-2017 Ford Expedition

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2017 Ford Expedition

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth ride

How to Replace Front Struts and Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2017 Ford Expedition

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth ride for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Expedition - Shock Absorber Replacement

On your Expedition, the rear uses separate shock absorbers, while the front uses a strut assembly (a shock + coil spring together). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, braking stability, and reduces bouncing and uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: Stock suspension; torque values are common OE ranges—verify if your fasteners differ.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ The front strut contains a coil spring under high tension; use a spring compressor or replace the complete strut assembly to avoid disassembly.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of suspension pinch points while lowering/raising the control arm.
  • ⚠️ If equipped with electronic stability/traction systems, avoid key-on while sensors are unplugged (prevents warnings).
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
  • Socket set: 10mm-24mm
  • Wrench set: 10mm-24mm
  • Torx bit set (T30-T55)
  • Pry bar (18")
  • Hammer (2 lb)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Spring compressor (specialty)
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
  • Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
  • Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks at the tires staying on the ground.
  • Loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
  • Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.
  • If doing front struts, plan for an alignment afterward.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheels

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift one axle at a time.
  • Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, then remove the wheels.

Step 2: Rear shocks - support the rear axle

  • Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle tube to lightly support it.
  • This prevents the axle from dropping when the shock is removed.

Step 3: Rear shocks - remove the lower mount

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower shock bolt/nut.
  • If the bolt is tight, tap it out with a hammer (2 lb) while supporting the shock.

Step 4: Rear shocks - remove the upper mount

  • Use a socket set: 10mm-24mm (commonly 15mm-18mm) to remove the upper shock fastener(s).
  • Remove the rear shock.

Step 5: Rear shocks - install the new shock

  • Install the new shock upper end first by hand-starting the fastener (use a ratchet).
  • Align the lower mount by raising/lowering the axle slightly with the floor jack.
  • Install the lower bolt/nut (use a socket and wrench to hold the nut).
  • Tighten mounts: Torque upper shock fastener to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten mounts: Torque lower shock bolt to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: Tighten with the axle at normal height.

Step 6: Front struts - mark camber (if equipped with cam bolts)

  • Look at the two large strut-to-knuckle bolts; if one is an eccentric (cam) bolt, mark its position.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the bolt and knuckle so you can reassemble close to the original alignment.

Step 7: Front struts - disconnect the sway bar link (if it blocks removal)

  • Use a wrench set: 10mm-24mm and Torx bit set (T30-T55) to hold the stud while removing the nut.
  • This link reduces body roll; moving it gives you clearance.
  • Tighten later: Torque sway bar link nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Front struts - free brackets and sensor wiring

  • Remove any brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool.
  • Do not let the brake hose hang or twist.

Step 9: Front struts - remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

  • Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack.
  • Use a 21mm-24mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts.
  • Tap bolts out with a hammer (2 lb) if needed.
  • Reinstall later: Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Front struts - remove the upper mount nuts

  • Open the hood.
  • Remove any cowl covers needed using a trim clip removal tool.
  • Remove the 3 upper strut mount nuts using a 15mm socket.
  • Reinstall later: Torque upper strut mount nuts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Front struts - remove and install the strut

  • Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
  • Install the new complete strut assembly into the tower and hand-start the 3 top nuts (use a 15mm socket).
  • Slide the knuckle back into place and install the two lower bolts/nuts (use a socket and wrench).
  • Torque fasteners: Torque upper strut mount nuts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
  • Torque fasteners: Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs).

Step 12: If you are NOT using complete struts (spring transfer)

  • Use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the coil spring before removing the center nut.
  • A spring compressor is a clamp tool that safely squeezes the spring shorter.
  • Remove the center nut using a socket set: 10mm-24mm and Torx bit set (T30-T55) as needed to hold the shaft.
  • Transfer spring and mount, then reinstall center nut: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: If unsure, buy complete struts.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the SUV

  • Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts (use a 21mm socket).
  • Lower the SUV off jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque lug nuts to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Road-test at low speed first; listen for clunks or rattles over bumps.
  • Recheck all visible fasteners after a short drive.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement (prevents tire wear and steering pull).
  • If the ride feels bouncy, confirm shocks are installed in the correct orientation and fully tightened.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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