🔧 Highlander - Shock/Strut Replacement

On your Highlander, the front suspension uses struts (shock + spring assembly), and the rear uses shocks (separate from the spring). Replacing worn units restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking stability.

Quick check: Are you replacing front struts, rear shocks, or all four? And are you installing complete front strut assemblies (pre-built) or reusing the spring with a compressor?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: Rear: 1.5-3.0 hours | Front: 3.0-6.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on solid ground.
• 🛑 If you reuse the front coil spring, a spring compressor is required—compressed springs store dangerous energy.
• 🔥 Suspension parts can be hot after driving; let everything cool before starting.
• 🔩 Keep the knuckle/hub supported so you don’t overstretch the brake hose or ABS wire.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount/bearing kits - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear shock upper bushings/hardware kit - Replace in pairs - Qty: 1
• New self-locking nuts/bolts for strut-to-knuckle and shock mounts - As needed - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the wheels that stay on the ground using wheel chocks.
• Crack loose lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• If doing front struts: decide whether you’re using complete strut assemblies (easiest) or compressing/reusing the spring with a spring compressor.
• Tip: Spray fasteners with penetrating oil 10 minutes early.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack to lift the corner you’re working on, then support the vehicle with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 2 (Rear): Remove the rear shock

• Support the rear lower control arm with the floor jack so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly.
• Remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Access the upper shock nut(s) from the cargo area trim as needed using a flat trim tool and remove with a 14mm socket.
• Pull the shock out. Use a rubber mallet if it’s stuck.

Step 3 (Rear): Install the new rear shock

• Install the shock into the upper mount first, hand-start the upper nut(s) using a 14mm socket.
• Line up the lower mount by raising/lowering the control arm with the floor jack, then install the lower bolt using a 17mm socket.
• Torque rear shock upper nut(s) to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
• Torque rear shock lower bolt to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Tip: Final-torque with the suspension at normal height.

Step 4 (Front): Remove brackets and stabilize the knuckle

• Turn the steering to give yourself room.
• Remove the brake hose/ABS wire brackets from the strut using a 10mm socket or 12mm socket (varies by bracket hardware).
• Support the steering knuckle/hub so it can’t pull on the brake hose; use a floor jack under the lower control arm.

Step 5 (Front): Disconnect sway bar link from the strut

• Remove the stabilizer (sway bar) link nut at the strut using a 17mm socket.
• If the stud spins, use a hex key socket set in the stud while turning the nut with the 17mm socket.
• During reassembly: Torque stabilizer link nut to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 6 (Front): Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Mark the bolt position with a paint marker for a reference.
• Remove the two large bolts/nuts using a 22mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet.
• Tap bolts out carefully using a rubber mallet.
• During reassembly: Torque strut-to-knuckle bolts to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs).

Step 7 (Front): Remove the strut from the tower

• Open the hood and locate the three top strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut from below, then remove the three nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Remove the strut assembly out through the wheel well.
• During reassembly: Torque top mount nuts to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 8 (Front option A): Install complete strut assemblies

• Position the new complete strut assembly into the tower and hand-start the three top nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Slide the strut into the knuckle, install the two large bolts/nuts using a 22mm socket.
• Reconnect the stabilizer link using a 17mm socket.
• Reinstall brake hose/ABS brackets using the correct socket you removed them with.
• Torque all fasteners: Top mount 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs), Strut-to-knuckle 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs), Stabilizer link 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 9 (Front option B): Reuse spring (only if experienced)

• Install a spring compressor (specialty) on opposite sides of the spring and compress evenly. (A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring shorter so it’s not pushing outward.)
• Remove the center strut nut using a strut nut pass-through socket set (specialty).
• Transfer the spring and mount parts to the new strut in the same orientation.
• Reinstall the center nut and tighten with the torque wrench: Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Slowly release the spring compressor, making sure the spring seats correctly.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack, remove jack stands, then final-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering returns normally.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut replacement (required).
• Recheck lug nut torque after ~25–50 miles using a torque wrench.
• If you replaced rear shocks only, alignment is usually not required, but get it checked if tire wear is uneven.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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